Visiting the Brontë sisters in Yorkshire

People say literary genius is a rare thing, something seen only once in a thousand or a million people. Maybe so, but the Brontës had three (and maybe five) literary geniuses in the same family.

From their father’s parsonage in Haworth, Yorkshire, in northern England, the three Brontë sisters Charlotte, Emily, and Anne produced some of the most popular books in the English language. Works like Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights are still read more than 150 years after they were published. They’ve survived the test of time. The ebook edition of Wuthering Heights is currently ranked number 457 at Amazon’s Kindle store, and number 5 in the fiction classics category. Their work has been made into numerous movies and another version of Jane Eyre is coming out next year.

The sisters also prompted literary tourism to Haworth. It started not long after they died and has steadily grown ever since. While everyone comes to Haworth to see the Brontë home and related sights, they also enjoy a beautiful and well-preserved nineteenth century village full of shops and fine restaurants.

Now I have to be honest here and admit that until I went on this trip I had never read a Brontë novel. They were the classics I never got assigned in school and I figured I’d get around to whenever. Before I left for Yorkshire I read Jane Eyre and was surprised by how much I enjoyed it. The rich prose and sedate pacing definitely belong to the nineteenth century, but the smartass, independent female protagonist belongs to the modern world.

Much of Haworth remains as the Brontës knew it. The Brontë Parsonage Museum preserves their home and tells their story. House museums are tricky to do well. Despite being a museum junkie, some historic homes bore me to death. This one, however, gripped my attention. Besides the usual stuff like the desks they wrote at and the sofas they sat on (and Emily may have died on), there are the little details that make it stick in your memory. In the nursery where they spent their childhood faint pencil drawings can be seen on the wall. While it’s impossible to say if these literary giants doodled these when they were small, it makes you wonder.

There’s also the story of Branwell Brontë. Who? Yeah, that was always his problem. He was their brother, a failed artist and struggling writer living in the shadow of his superstar sisters. He fell into a downward spiral of alcoholism and opium addiction before dying at 31. The above painting of his sisters is Branwell’s work. He originally included himself in the portrait, then unsuccessfully erased himself. He doodled constantly, illustrating letters he sent to friends. One at the museum shows himself in two images. The first is labeled “Paradise” shows him drunk off his ass and shouting, “I am the lord of the manor!” The other is labeled “Purgatory” and shows him hunched over an opium pipe.

%Gallery-104264%The museum also tells the story of their father Patrick, the local pastor who was also a published author. Many a young woman’s ambitions were crushed in those days by domineering fathers who wanted them to get married and get pregnant. Patrick Brontë was progressive enough not to feel threatened by his daughters’ talent and encouraged them in their careers.

Beyond the Brontë parsonage you can see traces of their life everywhere. Patrick Brontë’s church stands nearby and houses the family’s memorial chapel. The pub where Branwell got drunk is just a short stagger away from the apothecary where he bought his opium. The Black Bull Inn still serves up fine Yorkshire ales, but the apothecary shop stopped carrying opiates when they started requiring a prescription. Otherwise it’s a good replica of an early apothecary and still sells traditional cures.

Haworth’s main street is down a steep hill lined with little shops. You can find delicious local cheeses and preserves, a couple of fine tearooms, some excellent secondhand bookshops, and more gift shops than you can shake a copy of Wuthering Heights at. Several historic inns offer beers and beds. At the train station a traditional steam railway offers rides.

But Haworth isn’t all tea and scones and twee little shops. There’s a dark side to the town’s history, full of ghosts, death, and despair. On my second day I discovered I was all too close to the supernatural. . .

This is the first of my new series Exploring Yorkshire: ghosts, castles, and literature in England’s north.

Coming up next: Three nights in a haunted hotel room!

This trip was sponsored by
VisitEngland and Welcome to Yorkshire.

[Photo courtesy user Mr. Absurd via Wikimedia Commons]

Launch party, noir night, and wanderlust mixers at Idlewild Books in NYC

I love being an island girl and everything, but I’ve longed to live in the Big Apple. Now there’s another great reason travel junkies who live in NYC to cheer: Idlewild Books, the hippest travel books and international literature store in the city, is offering up some cool events and mixers to wash the “stuck in the city” blues away.

Idlewild Books, New York City’s newest travel- and world-literature bookstore located on the second floor of 12 West 19th Street, caters to literary travelers seeking worldly inspiration. Books are organized by country, with guidebooks, nonfiction, and fiction mixed together.

This (Thursday, February 19th) evening at 7 p.m., Idlewild will host the READRUSSIA.COM LAUNCH PARTY, celebrating the launch of Russia! magazine’s new daily lit blog. The party is sponsored by Jewel of Russia. Russian vodka punch will be served, Russian music will be played, and Russian snacks will be available. This new website will provide broad coverage of all Russia-related topics.

Shortly following this launch party, Idlewild will host INTERNATIONAL NOIR NIGHT on Tuesday, February 24th at 7 p.m. The editors of PARIS NOIR and ROME NOIR will be on hand to engage in readings and disucssions of the latest volumes of Akashic’s terrific city noir series, which are set in Paris and Rome (obviously!).

If those two events are enough, Idlewild will be hosting WANDERLUST MIXERS in March! Where else can frequent fliers and globally-minded singles find love? In an international bookstore, of course! Tickets to these mixers can be purchased at Idlewild Books or on the store’s website, Wine and snacks and a $15 Idlewild gift card is included with each $35 ticket. The MIXER FOR STRAIGHT SINGLES AGED 25-44 is on Wednesday, March 4 at 7:30-9:30 p.m., and the MIXER FOR LGBT SINGLES AGED 25-44 will be on Wednesday, March 25, at 7:30-9:30 p.m..

I’m so excited about these Wanderlust Mixers! What a cool idea — and great way to meet some cool travel-inspired, and literary people.

Idlewild Books owner, David Del Vecchio, a much-travelled former United Nations press officer opened this independent bookstore in the Spring of 2008. If you can’t make it to one of the events listed above, there are certainly more cool soireés to come. Check the frequently updated website for the upcoming readings and activities.