No Wrong Turns: Buying or Renting a Surfboard in the Baja

by Kelsey Mulyk on

Tom is a huge surfer and I have always wanted to learn. So when we set off on this adventure surfing was a definite part of the plan. I have tried a couple times on other vacations but since we have been living in Calgary (which is smack in the middle of the Canadian prairies) I have never had enough time to really learn how…until now.

Baja California Sur is a huge surfing destination. Many of the ex-pat locals are surfers who found a killer surf break, bought a bit of land (when it was cheap) and never left. From Todos Santos all the way down the coast past San Jose Del Cabo you can find anything from mini waves to learn on to massive breaks for the advanced. But you need a board, and maybe a few lessons, before you can ride the waves.

We knew we needed boards and, unfortunately did not listen to a good piece of advice we received about where to purchase a board. The best place to get a board is in the States. Most of the boards in Mexico are imported from the US making them more expensive to buy. We were rushing to get into Mexico and looking back it would have been smarter to shop around for boards in the US.

Ah well, live and learn. On a surfboard mission we ran into Andy, a surfer from way back who manages the San Pedrito Surf Hotel, his recommendation was to try Costa Azul Surf Shop in San Jose Del Cabo. We headed there and managed to buy pretty decent used boards. Tom ended up with a Lost board, and the one I now own (but cannot stand up on) is an Olea, a locally made brand by Alejandro Olea, Costa Azul’s owner.

Costa Azul offers rentals at a pretty decent rate, rates start around $20 US per day, wet suit not included (I suggest getting one, the water is pretty chilly!). They also rent skim boards, body boards and snorkeling equipment for those not into surfing. Lessons for $55 US include a board, rashguard and hour-long lesson with an instructor. Two other locations, Todos Santos and Los Cerritos, offer rentals and lessons for those looking to catch a wave.

“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

No Wrong Turns: Live Rent Free in Mexico

by Kelsey Mulyk on

Baja California draws thousands of vacationers each year who fork out wads of cash to stay in cookie-cutter hotels. I prefer to stay in more low-key places for two reasons: number one, I usually don’t have the cash to live the lux life and number two, I’d rather experience more of the culture than see another typical hotel lobby. But, if the opportunity came up to stay in a nicer place and experience the culture all for a decent price I’d be up for it . And it might just be possible, in fact, it just might be free… which happens to be right in my price range.

How’d you like to visit Mexico and stay for free in your own place?
Seriously….for free.

If you have a couple of weeks on hand, the money to pay for a flight or the desire to drive yourself down you could have yourself an inexpensive and amazingly beautiful vacation. How you ask? Become a housesitter.

Since we arrived in Mexico, many of the folks we’ve met have managed to stay here for months on end just by taking care of homes and picking up odd jobs here and there.

Many homeowners in Mexico are Americans and Canadians who spend half the year chilling out in Mexico and the other half at home. Understandably, a major concern for them is leaving their homes empty for months at a time. They are looking for trustworthy and reliable people to take care of their homes, keep their plants alive, babysit pets and discourage theft. When all is said and done, it’s a pretty easy job, and somebody’s got to do it.

Ads for housesitters in the Baja run in many of the local publications like the Gringo Gazette (I know…the name really is awesome) and the El Calendario de Todos Santos. Being a green thumb, pet-lover, or fixer-upper type can help to secure a position and a solid reference will do wonders. Housesitting is a great way to check out Mexico and the most you have to worry about are utilities and food.

How great is that? You could live rent-free for months in Mexico (sweet!), possibly in a really swanky pad (even sweeter) How could it get any better?

HouseSitMexico.com connects housesitters with homeowners all over Mexico. Housesitters-to-be can register for $20US (only until March 31st and then it will go to $30) to place an ad about their availability and qualifications. Access to the database of homeowners looking for help is granted once registered.

I don’t know about you guys but I am signing up right now!

Has anyone house-sat in Mexico before? I’d love to hear how it went.

“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

No Wrong Turns: Easter in Mexico….No Mini Eggs Here

by Kelsey Mulyk on

You won’t find any pastel colored eggs, chocolates or fuzzy white rabbits in Mexico during Easter. In fact, there isn’t a speck of the materialistic, Cadbury-bunny-laced Easter we have come to know and love at home. And, believe me, I looked for those addictive Mini Eggs everywhere.

Mexicans are predominantly Catholic and Holy Week, or “Semana Santa” as it is known here, is the most important religious holiday of the year. Kids get the week before and after Easter Sunday off and it is a time for family and church. These two weeks off are equivalent to our Spring Break so travelers can expect beaches and hotels to be crowded…make your reservations early.

Tom and I caught a little bit of the celebration on Good Friday (Viernes Santo). The devout congregate in groups all over the city, each outfitted with a large cross. These groups walk throughout the neighborhoods towards the church, stopping at homes to perform prayers and blessings. Eventually all the groups meet at the church for the service. In other parts of the country, the crucifixion is reenacted and passion plays are performed. One of the biggest celebrations is held in Iztapalapa, just south of Mexico City.

“Sabado de Gloria”, Holy Saturday, tells the story of the betrayal of Jesus by Judas. Papier mache Judases are created and then burned or destroyed as part of the ceremony. The service we attended was not so inclined and instead included readings by from both the Mexican and English community. People just kept piling in and eventually all the seats were taken leaving latecomers standing in the aisles. Women were hanging onto restless children, statues of the Virgen de Guadalupe were clutched tightly in hand, thousands of candles were lit and re-lit, bottles of water were raised for blessing and children, trussed up in their best clothes, were baptized and welcomed as members to the Catholic church. The evening ended with a shower of bright fireworks that could be seen from all over town.

Two words of advice on attending a church service:

Many Mexicans turn up casually dressed, but it is wise to be respectful and dress appropriately. Women should have their shoulders covered and men should wear a nice shirt and pants.

It is worth bringing your own candle so you can participate in the service. A ton of candles are lit during this event…it is like one big bonfire waiting to happen, so make sure you know where the closest exit is or sit near someone with a big bottle of water.

On Easter Sunday, Domingo de Pascua, Mexicans attend Mass and then spend the rest of the day enjoying the company of family and friends, sadly for me, it is not filled with bunny trails or chocolates either, sigh.
Anyone want to send some Mini Eggs my way?

%Gallery-19027%

“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

To Mexicans in America: Hang in there

by Iva Skoch on

This column in the San Diego Union Tribune has already created some controversy among liberals, as well as conservatives.

Mexican President Felipe Calderon will be spreading his good word in the United States in the next few days. According to the columnist, Ruben Navarrette, he is getting flak for not being vocal enough in protesting what many Mexicans see as the harsh and unfair treatment of their sons and daughters in the United States.

“It’s as if many Americans are waiting around for Mexico to solve our immigration problem by creating jobs south of the border or physically restraining those intent on crossing into the United States. If so, they’re going to be waiting a long time. Mexico now takes in about $23 billion annually in remittances from Mexicans living in the United States. It has no interest in turning off the golden faucet,” writes Navarrette.

The message that Calderon intends to spread around the United States in the next few days is one of hope. He tries to assure his country’s runaways that Mexico hasn’t forgotten them and remains attentive to their needs.

“It’s a good message,” Navarrette writes. “And one that the poor souls would have, no doubt, appreciated hearing before they packed their bags and headed north.” Harsh.

No Wrong Turns: How to Drive and Survive in Mexico

by Kelsey Mulyk on

Traveling with a car has its advantages: we are free to roam all over, stop when we please and we don’t have to share a seat with any livestock. But, the car also becomes a bit of a burden — another thing we have to worry about; it’s like one gigantic backpack. Worries range from “Do we have enough gas?” and “Does this car look like it’s worth breaking into?” to “Is that semi going to slow down?”

After 6000km, a bit of wear on the tires, one missing bumper, and a new appreciation for four wheel drive, I offer up some initial advice on driving in Mexico:

  1. DON’T drive at night. Most of the car violence we have heard of occurs at night on the highways…even the Mexicans will tell you to ‘park it’ once the sun sets.

  2. Never, under any circumstances, hand over your passport to anyone. Some scams include people pretending to be police officers. They pull you over, demand your passport then expect you to cough up a huge sum of money in return for your passport.
  3. If you are pulled over by police, be calm and polite. Don’t speak Spanish. Someone mentioned this to us early on and being a ‘dumb’ tourist has proved to be advantageous for us. If the officer presses you, ask for information on the law you supposedly broke or ask to speak to a supervisor. If you do receive a fine, pay it at the police station and get a receipt.
  4. Mexicans drive fast and, though posted speed limits are usually 60 to 80km/hr, the locals usually drive around 120km/hr. Stick to the posted limits to avoid giving the police any reason to pull you over. Or, at the very least, follow the flow of traffic but make sure you aren’t leading the pack.
  5. Fill up your car every time you see a gas station (and there is only one to choose from in Mexico called Pemex). There are stretches of highway that run for over 400km without a gas station in sight. No signs are posted to warn you that you have just driven by the last station for the next 600 km.
  6. Carry a jerrycan with extra gas. (see above)
  7. Trucks will put on their left-hand signal light to let you know that it is safe to pass them on the highway.
  8. Keep small bills, both American and Mexican, for the toll roads. Change is often hard to come by in Mexico.
  9. Go for the filthy, hippy, garbage-y car vibe and leave your car dirty both inside and out. Tom and I splattered dirt on our license plate to make it less visible. I chucked empty water bottles and food wrappers on the floor and the backseat. If looks junky it might prevent any sort of curiosity about what is inside.
  10. And the piece de resistance: Hang a rosary off your rearview or better yet put a sticker of the Virgen de Guadalupe on you car.

“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.