Paddling Baja Dispatch: Day 2

There is something nearly indescribable about waking up on the first day of a paddling trip when you know that what lies ahead are days of nothing but paddling in a place you’ve never been. Your mind cannot quite grasp the collective moments of joy and, perhaps, misery, that lie ahead. Of course, even the most miserable day paddling beats a day at the office, and so while we had little idea what lay ahead, we knew that the moments would begin to flow the second we opened our eyes.

And so we awoke that first day giddy with anticipation. We grabbed some coffee and immediately met up with our guide, an amiable, capable-looking Mexican guy named Carlos. The morning was cool, and our boats had already been sent North to a deserted bay on the island. From the get go, luck was with us. Sort of.

Carlos stood in front of a colorful map of Isla Espiritu Santo that was painted on the wall of the Mar y Aventuras hotel. He showed us our route and explained that because there was a rather heavy wind blowing down from the North, they were going to take us by skiff to the top of the island where we’d be dropped off to paddle South.

We’d signed up for a self-supported paddle trip, which meant that we were supposed to carry all our own stuff: gear, food, supplies. But with the strong winds, the company decided instead to send along the skiff for the entire trip. That suddenly made things a whole lot easier. It meant that our actual paddling loads would be much lighter and that we’d also be able to bring along much more food and drink than we’d planned. Hmmm…drink. On the bad side, this meant that our notions of a true wilderness adventure dimmed a bit. But it also meant that the luxury quotient, as it were, rose significantly. Having a skiff along meant that we could just toss our stuff into its spacious hold whenever we took off. It relieved us of a big burden and of the time it takes to pack up everything neatly every time we headed out in the kayaks. We could have objected…but of course, we didn’t

The skiff took us about ten miles North to a spot on the island where our kayaks had been dropped the night before. The ride was a marvelous visual hors d’oeuvre of what lay ahead. We motored over the wind-scalloped blue seas and along the jagged coast where layer cake rock formations rose high above us. Cactus stood guard from the cliff tops, acting as prickly sentinels.

We disembarked at the spot where our kayaks had been kept overnight, had a quick lunch of ham and cheese sandwiches and then headed out to reach Candelero Bay, where we’d set up our first camp. We had two tandem (or double) boats and two singles. My friend Mark Humphries and I rode in one of the doubles and my other two friends, Erik Riegler and Dork Alahydoian paddled in the other. Carlos was in a single as was a perky, graying brunette from Vancouver, British Columbian an emergency room physician whose presence as both a testosterone-diluting female and a doctor was welcome.

The first day of paddling was decidedly relaxed. The seas were rough, but we stayed close to shore where the winds were tame and the swells less severe. By 4 pm, we’d made camp at Candelero Bay and immediately set up our tents. Meanwhile, Carlos and our skiff driver Angel, went about making dinner.

One of the unexpected pleasures of our trip was that our guide, Carlos, had a deep fondness for both good Mexican food and, more importantly, good coffee. To our astonishment and everlasting satisfaction, his abiding passion for these things made every meal and every morning a delight. And as anyone who has taken extended trips into the wilderness knows, hunger does indeed make a fine sauce. But so does habanero salsa, and Carlos was both lucky and prescient to have a few iron-clad stomachs on the trip and brought along a few bottles of the stuff.

Of course, nothing washes down extremely hot Mexican food better than rum, and so as we sat and ate our first meal of fresh tacos that early evening, and as the sun sank into a saffron stew of clouds on the horizon, we sat on the beach in portable chairs and sipped icy cold cups of Bacardi and Coke.

Soon after, bellies full, shoulders weary from paddling and heads nicely lightened by rum, night came, a canopy of stars shimmered overhead, and we sat and talked about life and the necessary and incandescent thrill of getting away on trips like this.

Photo of the Day (October 23, 2006)

Following on my post about the Li River, near Yangshuo, China, here’s a shot I took from the kayak. The rain had just finished, but we could hear thunder in the distance. The river was moving swiftly, carrying us past this “commuter.”

Kayaking the Li

You’ve all seen those Chinese watercolor paintings that hang in every Chinese restaurant and shop, that show the limestone karsts rising above a tranquil river. Typically, there’s a person on a bamboo raft, with a conical hat, on that painted river. Well, that Shangri-La actually exists. And it’s called the Li River.

The Li stretches between Yangshuo and Guilin, in the interior of China, in the Guangxi province.

The best place to experience the Li is starting from the village of Yangshuo (pop. over 300,000–i.e., a mere village in China), nestled in the tree-covered hills and karsts surrounding the river. It’s an hour or so from nearby Guilin (a small “town” of over 1.3 million). Now, be sure to get on the right bus to Guilin–unlike we did–because you could end up some 300 miles to the south, in Yulin, due to a slight pronunciation error. But that’s another story…

In Yangshuo, we stayed in a hotel called the Bamboo House. A double room with a view, A/C, a TV, DVD player and dozens of bootleg DVDs (why?) was only about $14 USD.

You can arrange to rent kayaks from the folks at the hotel. Early morning, they drove us deep into the country and let us off at the river’s edge with a couple of cheap kayaks and very vague directions on where we’d meet our pick-up later that day. We had the river to ourselves.

It was beautiful: white birds flew over the calm water. Water buffalo waded in to watch us pass. Storm clouds passed the nearby mountains. Occasionally, a fisherman on a skiff would pass by. There, we had the only peace and quiet we experienced anywhere in China. Just like in the watercolor paintings.

Transparent Kayak

File this under “WAAAAAAyyyy cool”. I guess the question that comes to mind for me, is why had no one thought of this before. The Transparent Canoe-Kayak allows you to be out on a paddle and glimpse, right down there between your legs, all the myriad life forms that inhabit the sea…or at least those down between your legs. Of course, paddling on the Hudson would likely provide me with glimpses of murky water at best and a river bottom of trash or perhaps a mafia-duped body at worst. Still I love the concept.

The Transparent Canoe-Kayak is a tandem, meaning it can seat two folks. Which means you’ll have someone to share you’re adventure with. Interestingly, and this might explain the price, the kayak is made of the same material found in the cockpit canopies of supersonic fighter jets as well as a lightweight anodized aluminum frame. What does piece of wonder run? No surprise. It ain’t cheap: $1,459.95.Brilliant.

How to Roll a Kayak

Of all the things a paddler must know (other than your basic forward stroke…and how to watch out for boats…and how not to get hit by a killer whale), the roll is probably the most important. Of course, I’m talking more about river kayaking than touring, although knowing how to roll a touring kayak can certainly come in handy. The roll is a rough move. I learned how to do the Eskimo roll in a pool in college, and then took to the nearby rivers and improved my technique. Though I do have to say I soon immigrated away from river kayaking and into touring and never really had a good, solid roll.

But if I were to get back into it, and if you’re interested in learning how to roll, or at least reading a site that provides some tips that you might employ when you next get into a boat, you should check out this very well-done HOW-TO and video on rolling.  The article is written by Kent Ford, the creator of the infamous Kayak Roll video.