Panama Rules!

by Iva Skoch on

I thought I’d recap a few of the things I’ve learned over the past week. I’ll call them My Rules of Panama.

  1. Do not go to Panama City without hotel reservations. For some reason, there are way too few rooms to go around, even though P.C. is a big, modern city with an incredible amount of residential high-rise construction going on. High end hotels or low end hostels were the same story.
  2. Negotiate with your taxi driver ahead of time. No meters can mean widely different fares.
  3. Do not get to your regional airport flight late. I went from P.C. to Bocas by regional airline (Aeroperlas), and the flight left 25 minutes early. That’s a first.
  4. Do not go to the Caribbean coast without rain gear. Even outside of the rainy season, it can rain very often.
  5. Sand flies can be murder on the Caribbean coast. Bring repellent and wear long pants and shoes at night or you’ll be itching for days.
  6. Bring a very up to date guidebook if you want to know prices ahead of time: prices on everything have at least doubled in the last 3-5 years. That’s even more amazing considering their currency is pegged 1-to-1 to the U.S. dollar and you can pay everywhere in USD.
  7. Bring earplugs if pounding music at 4am will trouble your sleep. It’s everywhere.

I’ve really enjoyed my time in this beautiful country. I’ve walked a rainforest in the city, seen toucans and dozens of parrots right in Panama City, gone wreck diving in crystal Caribbean waters, been face-to-face with huge toadfish, pipefish, and barracuda, seen the history-changing Canal, and polished off a few Atlases, Balboas, and Panamas (i.e., beer), and I’d lived to scratch about it. Thanks, Panama.

Cleveland or Panama? Migratory birds reveal all

by Iva Skoch on

Panama City is home to one of the world’s largest rain forests inside city limits. It’s beautiful. Great city and Pacific Ocean views on one side (like my picture the other day, taken from the park) and unbroken jungle-like views on the other side.

What’s strange about the Panama National Metropolitan Park is that it is a sister park to the Cleveland (Ohio) Metroparks system. USAID and the U.S. National Fish and Wildlife Foundation give some assistance to the park in Panama.

Why? It turns out that a few of Cleveland’s home-town birds winter every year right here in Panama City. Birds like the Baltimore Oriole (pictured), the Yellow Warbler, and the Barn Swallow all hang out from May to September in Ohio, then head to Panama for the winter.

Signs throughout the park tell of the parallels between the cities. Both are major cities. Both home to over a million inhabitants. Both are a terminus of an important canal (the Erie and the Panama). Unlike Cleveland, Panama’s park is home to 950 species of birds (227 of which can be found in the park), forty-six of which are migratory birds. Like Clevelend, Panama hasn’t had a winning sports team in approximately 342 years.

Latin American airlines rock! Can we have them here?

by Iva Skoch on

It has been so refreshing to fly those little regional airlines in Latin America in the last couple of weeks. I have taken 4 regional flights so far and I love how well it has worked for me. Granted, the planes look about 50 years old, while the pilots look about 20, but they do seem to know what they are doing.

I appreciate that they operate like trains, without any of that insane ticket pricing structure we have all reluctantly gotten used to: “The air ticket you looked up yesterday for $250? Um, that will be $600 today. Why? Just because. Check back tomorrow, it might come down again. Umm, why?”

I have forgotten how nice it is to walk up to a counter and buy an air ticket for a flight that takes off 30 minutes from now. I did exactly that a few of days ago in Panama City. I walked up to an Aeroperlas counter and bought a one way ticket to Bocas del Toro for $70. If I bought the ticket 2 weeks before or 6 months prior, it would have still been $70. I love that – first come, first serve. Makes budgeting for travel much easier. Even better – if you miss the flight (which I did on one ocassion), they will issue you a new ticket to the same, or different, destination at no extra cost. How cool is that?

Try the same thing in the US or Europe, even with those so-called budget airlines, sometimes. They will charge you $2000 for a $200 ticket if you want to fly the same day. Changes? Yeah, right. The airlines would rather have the seat empty than charge something sensible. I remember taking a course on airline pricing structure in college and I remember that the overly complicated way air ticket pricing is set didn’t make any sense to me then. Clearly, it still doesn’t.

War in Panama: attack of the sandflies

by Iva Skoch on

Yes, these are my legs. Yes, they have seen better days. I woke up a couple of nights ago and counted 85 sandfly bites on my left calf alone. I don’t understand why I don’t see anyone else chewed to pieces. Why do they love me so much?

Last week, I spent trekking through the Corcovadorainforest in Costa Rica and didn’t get a single bite. I was ready to fight mosquitoes in Panama’s Bocas del Toro, but I wasn’t prepared for sandflies! They have mosquito nets here but those pose no problem for sandflies. The sandfly is basically invisible, doesn’t make a noise, is about a quarter of the size of a mosquito and much faster. By the time you feel them biting you, they are gone. If there is a definition of irregular warfare, this must be damn close.

I brought repellent (40% DEET) and have been using it religiously during my hikes through the jungle. I should have been better about putting it on at night, I guess. That’s when sandflies attack. Apparently, most sandflies are harmless (except for the really itchy bites) but some carry the parasite Leishmaniasis, which can result in ugly sores, scars and if left untreated, death.* That does not sound like fun. Meanwhile, I am putting all my energy into NOT scratching.

* I find that 5 to 6 bottles of Panama beer makes one forget about the imminent death by tropical parasites.

Photo of the Day (11/26/07)

by Iva Skoch on

Since I am in Panama now, here is a picture I took a few days ago in cloudy Panama City (it’s the end of the rainy season). This is my first time in Panama and I am blown away by the amount of construction going on in this city. The obsession with highrises reminds me of Shanghai; so do the slums with the view of the “good life.”

***To have your photo considered for the Gadling Photo of the Day, go over to the Gadling Flickr site and post it.***