Kilt style not limited to heritage

I’ll never forget watching a family of Americans at a Scottish Highland Games event in Ontario hold kilts inches from their faces, examining the patterns carefully to make sure they didn’t by the wrong clan’s tartan. I learned quickly that I did not have this skill and, characteristically, gave up without much effort. The need for a true kilt expert, however, was painfully obvious. This small memory from a decade ago, popped back into my head when I entered 21st Century Kilts in Edinburgh.

Howie Nicholsby comes from a long line of kilt craftsmen, though five minutes with him shows you that he cannot be contained by tradition (or anything else). A keen eye for detail puts the right clan on your body, but his sense of style opens Scotland‘s traditional garb to new ideas that few have imagined.

I tried on the “desert camouflage” kilt (yes, I wore it like a “true Scot”). I figured it would be a bit breezy and was surprised to learn just how hot it can be under the garment. The higher quality kilts are quite heavy, requiring a considerable amount of fabric to produce. Thus, they tend to fetch high prices. The one I tried on (but didn’t buy) would have set me back close to $400, though currency swings would probably bring it closer to $300 today.

Without a doubt, the prices are pretty rough, and there are less expensive kilts available in Scotland (though there is a lobbying effort in progress to limit what can be called a “kilt” to those manufactured in Scotland according to specific standards). You get what you pay for, according to Howie, and spending less than $100 will result in a noticeable lack of quality.

So, if you find yourself strolling the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, poke your head into 21st Century Kilts. Howie will have you rolling in laughter, and he’ll probably have you in a new kilt by the end of your visit.

Scotland wants you to come home

Even if you don’t have Scottish blood charging through your veins, you’re still invited to Homecoming Scotland. In 2009, the country will host more than 200 events … and yes, you can expect whisky to flow at a few of them.

The year kicks off with the Homecoming Burns Supper, part of an entire weekend (January 23-25, 2009) to celebrate the 250th anniversary of Scotland‘s national poet. Down some haggis and pour a few glasses of The Famous Grouse while celebrating what you didn’t bother to read in high school (or in college).

If dead writers don’t turn you on, there are plenty of other reasons to head across the Atlantic in 2009. You can track ancestry, watch people toss very large poles or take in 18 holes. You may even want to register for some free giveaways.

Need a place to stay? I’ve hit the Dakota Forth Bridge in Edinburgh and had a great time (the duck eggs for breakfast are a must), and rooms are available in January for less than $200 a night. If cities don’t work for you, head out to Loch Tay and spend a few nights at Ardeonaig (the owner and chef is an absolute madman, the genius kind) – you’ll have to call to find out the rates.

Just remember: Scotland isn’t easy on smokers, as I learned the hard way.

Light up in Glasgow’s Bothy

You’ll never find the “Bothy” on your own. Tucked away in the Hotel du Vin’s courtyard, this hidden gem is Glasgow‘s only sheltered smoke spot. So, while the rest of Scotland endures wind and rain with each precious puff, you can stay dry and enjoy every draw. Oppressive may render smoking a chore, but the Bothy brings the pleasure back.

Scotland‘s smoking laws make those in the United States seem downright accommodating. On our side of the Atlantic, most tobacconists find space for at least a few chairs, or accept that customers will stand around the shop for a bit while partaking of their recent purchases. Even this luxury, though, is not afforded by the regulations that bear down on Glasgow. Cigar shops remain points of sale only, deprived of the chance to incubate friendships and cultivate a tightly-knit smoking culture.

The Hotel du Vin, fortunately, has found a way to bypass the indoor smoking ban: strip away the walls.

One of several upscale boutiques in Glasgow, the Hotel du Vin, distinguishes itself by having eschewed a cookie-cutter design in favor of truly unique guestrooms. For lovers of the leaf, however, the essential attraction is through the lobby and beyond a white-trimmed glass door. The rest of the journey to the Bothy requires no more than 25 paces (if you stand 5’10”), ending in a covered, heated outdoor smoking lounge that is open 24 hours a day.

The Bothy is an indoor/outdoor hybrid, with natural and copious ventilation that does not come at the expense of protection from scorching sunlight or driving rain. Most of the structure lacks walls, though the sloping roof compensates for about half of what is missing, and heating along the shelter’s perimeter combats Glasgow’s often merciless elements. The gas-powered fireplace is typically ablaze throughout the day and evening, and if it is not, the staff has made clear that they are more than happy to ignite it-quickly.
To the Hotel du Vin’s credit, the Bothy is not treated as a leper colony. The staff directs you to this nearby retreat without judgment or sneers … and with coffee (or tea). Several beverages are available for outdoor consumption while you smoke, and an amply-stocked humidor can fill any gaps in what you have brought with you for the trip. If you are equipped with your own cigars, the Hotel du Vin does not charge a cutting fee in the Bothy. As I write, a Toro-sized De La Concha Grand Reserve, brought with me from New York, rests between my fingers, though I may switch to a stick of the Cuban variety when the ember comes closer to my knuckles.

Whether you’re staying on the premises or need to grab a taxi from deep inside the city, the Bothy is worth the time it takes to smoke a double corona. Clip it, light it and relax in a soft leather chair. Sip one of the few good cups of coffee in Scotland. And, enjoy la dolce vita.

Photo of the Day (01.22.08)


I’m not a crazy sports fan or anything, but few things remind me more of my travels in the UK than football. So I love the contrast of dreary old-world architecture and colourful new-world football fanaticism in this photo from Edinburgh, taken by Annie White. Thanks for the photo, Annie!

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Fewer Loch Ness Sightings Might Mean Fewer Tourists

Sightings of the famous Scottish monster are down lately — only two sightings this year so far and three in 2006. Ten years ago sightings were in the double digits and residents fear that fewer Nessie sightings could mean fewer tourist dollars. Nessie has been a key tourism draw, bringing an estimated 6 million pounds a year into the Scottish Highlands.

The Loch Ness Monster Fan Club runs four web cams on the North Shore of Loch Ness, hoping to record a glimpse Nessie. There have been more than 4,000 purported sightings, and lots of speculation as to what the creature might be. Some believe Nessie is an unknown species while others speculate that it could be a sturgeon, or even a last surviving dinosaur.