A Circle of Peace: A 9/11 story the year after

There are moments in life that ververberate like the sound after a Tibetan singing bowl is struck with a mallet. The sound moves outward and outward and outward–hopefully evoking good and centering force in the universe.

Sometimes in travel, there are those experiences where you notice how diverse the crowd is and how well folks are getting along. This is where Louis Amstrong’s song “It’s a Wonderful World” would play if life really was a musical.

Those moments can feel like healing for those times when people don’t get along. At least that’s how it is with me.

There is a room of New Delhi called the Hall of Peace where middle schoolers gather once a week for the school assembly. Dozens of nationalities are represented, and these are kids who will eventually move on in the world with visions of the world’s people in the make up of their skin.

On September 11, 2002, this is what happened there. The result was as if someone struck a singing bowl. This day each year, I can hear its sound.

[Continue reading for the reason why.]

Art of Diversity forms a Circle of Peace

At 3:35 on that Wednesday afternoon, the time students generally rush out the doors, middle schoolers at the American Embassy School in New Delhi needed to be reminded it was time to leave. They were gathered in the Hall of Peace, the school’s main meeting place where flags of many of the nearly 60 students’ nationalities hang.

On this particular Wednesday, a year from the day that students wondered if it was still safe to go to school, these adolescents transformed the H.O.P. with art. On September 11, 2002, nothing was said about the horrific occurrence of planes crashing, buildings falling and people dying.

Nothing was said about worries and fears. Not a word about what would happen if India and Pakistan do not resolve their differences, or if Israel and Palestine do not resolve theirs, or what will happen if the US does follow through with its threats to attack Iraq.

Terrorists had no place in the Hall of Peace on this day. But, children, their teachers, their support staff, and their principal did. At 3:35, gathered in a circle that no one told them to form, they were looking at doves. Not just a few doves, but more than 100. These were large, flat, wooden cutouts that each student, along with a partner, had just finished painting minutes earlier.

This school in New Delhi exists mainly for the expatriate community’s children whose parents, from various countries and for various reasons, work in India. The people who go there to teach and learn recognize that its population looks like a miniature UN. On a few occasions, the power and wonder of this mix connect together.

On September 11, 2002, through this middle school-wide project, art teacher Anja Palombo brought nations together. It only took the use of the school cafeteria, a dozen teachers, support staff, 210 students and an open-minded principal, all armed with acrylic paint, brushes and pre-cut , flat wooden doves to create a world vision where only peace has a chance.

Symbols like olive branches, Om and peace signs and hearts echoed the words that other students chose. “Heal Thy Environment,” “Harmony,” and “Peace is Hope” were written in English. Other messages were written in languages such as Hindi, Chinese and Danish.

With their bursts of blended colours from pastels to almost neon, and small glued-on mirrors, symbols and words, the doves took on personalities as varied as the students who painted them. Students like Kina, Prashant, Masetle, Fatimah, Soo Young, Beth and Tamas Pataky, worked with heads bent together in a buzz of festive activity.

Creating peace is not particularly quiet. Sometimes it involves moving about a spacious room filled with tables, choosing paint carefully and discussing ideas. It means making space at a table for any Buddhist, Christian, Jew, Hindu or Muslim to join in. It also involves allowing for participation of those with varied abilities, even those who take longer to come up with an idea. But, eventually, the ideas do come, and the collective whole becomes more than just any one person’s vision.

When students stood in the Hall of Peace looking at the doves they carried from the cafeteria on that recent Wednesday, the excitement was not just at seeing their dove amongst the others. It was in seeing the diversity. No two doves looked alike, not even if they were made from the same shaped cutout.

Peace as a collective contains many versions. The doves, now mounted on H.O.P.’s walls, seem as if they are soaring and dancing with each other under the nations’ flags. When people come to this gathering place, they do not find the danger of terrorism. Instead, what they find is a circle of peace.

[The original article was submitted to The Times of India who printed it. I adjusted the paragraphing to make it easier to read here and adjusted some wording.

Many of the students who were in this room are now in their first years of college.]

Galley Gossip: That Day – 9/11 (plus a chance to win the book Reclaiming The Sky)

That day, September 11, 2001, was the day I landed in Zurich, Switzerland for a week long vacation with my mother who is also a flight attendant based in New York. That morning, the morning we sat on a strange bed in a hotel room far away from home, our eyes glued to the television, we watched in horror as it happened, as an airplane, one of our airplanes, carrying our fellow crew members, along with our passengers, crashed into the World Trade Center. Like you, we were stunned, and scared, and could not believe what we had just seen so far far away from home. Little did we know our lives had changed forever.

“Don’t even bother going to the airport until the 21st,” said an airline representative over the phone after I told her we were airline employees trying to use our flight passes to get out of Switzerland on a flight, any flight, to the United States.

“How much to purchase a ticket?” I asked.

“Let me see….the only seat available is on the 28th, in coach, and that costs…” I could hear her fingers clickity click click clicking, working their magic. I held my breath. “$8,000,” she finally said.

“Just keep going to the airport,” said a Delta Captain laying over at our hotel. We were in the lobby waiting to check in – again, when he spotted the red CREW bag tag wrapped around my suitcase. “We were able to get a few standbys out the other day.”

So that’s what we did, my mother and I, we woke up early each morning, checked out of the hotel, walked to the train station in a daze, our bags rolling behind us, where we boarded a train in the dark to go to the airport. Hours were spent waiting to get on one of two flights, the only two flights going to the United States. All other flights had been canceled. One flight departed early in the morning and another left later in the evening and we were number 800-and-something on the standby list. Yet we continued to go to the airport and wait it out every single day, just like thousands of other people desperate to get home to family and friends.

Eventually some passengers did leave. By car. A couple of them decided to drive to other airports in neighboring countries. A few days later they returned. My mother and I still sat waiting, waiting, waiting in the terminal with little hope of getting out any time soon.

When we did finally make it back to the United States, I found myself in Texas, where my parents live, and that’s where I decided to stay until October. The route I’d flown for two years straight, New York – Vancouver, had been wiped off my schedule the entire month of September – never to return again. Which left me with a little time off that many of my colleagues were not fortunate enough to experience. I was lucky and I knew it.

The most vivid memory I have of that time, my time in Texas, took place in a popular oyster bar. There I was catching up with an old college friend I had actually run into at the Chicago airport the day I flew to Zurich. He had been on his way to Japan. We sat at a small table discussing what had happened, and the days that followed, while the people around us ate and drank and laughed, having a grand ole time, as if nothing had happened, while a television above the bar rolled footage of the recovery process going on in New York, my crew base since 1995.

Eventually I did go back to work, back to New York, less than a month after that day in September. I’ll never forget the smell, as it lingered in the air, strange and unexplainable, for months. And whenever I’d return to my crash-pad in Queens after a flight, I’d step out of the car and onto the curb, only to be greeted by stacked cardboard moving boxes. Japan, several boxes were labeled one particular afternoon. Most likely belonging to the opera singer living at the end of my hall, because shortly after that, the hallway became eerily quiet. (I still miss her beautiful voice.) As people left New York in droves, and the odd smell refused to dissipate, my colleagues continued to go to work, back to the airport, back on the airplane, back to where it all started on that day in September.

“Remember the soot on our windows in the apartment when we got back to New York?” my mother said after I read the first part of this post to her over the phone. “And the memorials set up for our coworkers in Operations?”

As my mother reminded me of all I could not remember, of what I did not want to remember, a chill went down my spine. What I do remember was flying into New York, the airplane low over the city, the passengers glued to the windows as they looked out to where the Trade Center had been, a dark hole on the ground that continued to smolder for far too long.

“I often wondered if the pilots were tipping the wing of the airplane in the direction of where the Trade Center had been in respect to what had happened,” my mother said.

On the jump-seat I sat on my first trip back, minutes after takeoff, when the flight attendant sitting beside me asked, “What are you going to do if something happens?”

“What do you mean?” I asked, knowing full well what he meant. It’s just I didn’t, at the time, have a plan. I mean I had a few ideas of what I could do, but I didn’t know exactly what I would do, if, in fact, it came to that. God how many times did I pray sitting on that jump-seat after takeoff that it would not come to that!

“Here’s what I’m going to do,” said the flight attendant as he motioned to the insert of soda sitting on the linoleum floor beside his jump-seat. He grabbed a can of Pepsi and made quick and aggressive throwing motions. “Bam! Bam! Bam!”

Soon after that, every flight attendant I met had some sort of plan, each plan more original and ingenious than the next. My weapon of choice, a can of soda inside a long sock that I would swing if anyone tried any funny business, I kept hidden behind the last row of seats in whatever cabin I happened to be working that day.

There were times, only a few, when strange things did happen on-board my flights, and I remember wondering if what had happened was really a “test run” for a future attack. And there were other times, only a few, when passengers would do things, very strange things, to take advantage of the situation that had developed on that horrible day. One of those times included an elderly gentleman, a Koran, a book of weapons, and an intense stare full of hatred. We, the crew, decided to ignore him.

One passenger we chose not to ignore walked on-board the aircraft – not a couple of years ago, but just last week, causing Heather, my coworker, to say, “There’s a guy seated in the first row of coach who gave me chills.” We were flying from Los Angeles to New York. “It looks like he might be traveling with three others because he keeps making eye contact with one in business class and one in the back of coach.”

Immediately I hopped off my jump-seat and made way up the aisle. The guy was young and…well…kind of odd looking and nervous acting. I asked him a random question, just to feel him out, and he answered in a way that left me feeling nothing – no chills, no sixth sense telling me to keep an eye on this guy. Who knows why Heather had felt the way she did about that guy during boarding, but for whatever reason, something made her feel that way, and I’m glad she did not discount that feeling. No one should.

Whenever I hear about an unfortunate accident involving an aircraft, I’m still taken back to that day in September. I can’t help it. Those were my airplanes. My crew members. My passengers. And yet I still go to work, because I want to go to work, because I love what I do, given all that’s changed since September 11, 2001.

The following is a quote from a flight attendant in the book, Reclaiming The Sky, by Tom Murphy, a quote I could have written myself. Reclaiming the Sky tells the personal story of several aviation employees – some who died, others whose job descriptions were transformed before their eyes, and countless more whose entire lives were forever altered on September 11th, 2001…

“It doesn’t sound like a big deal, balancing customer service and security, but the aircraft is full and people are crowding the aisle. You ask yourself, is the man lingering in the aisle suspect or merely inconsiderate? It’s two minutes to departure, we’re getting ready to close the door, and suddenly I’ll see we’re getting half a dozen late boardings – standbys and maybe a few wheelchairs. I’ll smile and find space for everyone, but over my shoulder I’ll see that passengers I’ve asked to turn off their electronic equipment continue making cell phone calls. Then someone will need to use the bathroom at the same moment an unescorted minor asks for their grandma, usually at the moment an overhead bin won’t close. Then comes an announcement from the cockpit and I’ll see the gate agent standing by the door ready to close it, with their foot tapping, which I can’t see, but I know it’s tapping…”

…And probably continues to tap, as passengers continue settling into their cramped seats, and the crew (minimum crew, mind you) continues to provide the best service they can with little to offer, and all the while fuel costs continue to rise, along with your ticket price. It’s not easy traveling today – for crew and passengers alike. Yet there we are, all of us in the flying tube together.

Tell us about your traveling experiences after 9/11, by Friday, September 12, 2008, by 5pm and you’ll have a chance to win a copy of the book Reclaiming The Sky, by Tom Murphy. Two winners will be chosen. Good luck!

  • To enter, simply leave a comment below describing a post-9/11 traveling experience.
  • The comment must be left before Friday, September 12, 2008 at 5pm Eastern time
  • You may enter only once.
  • Two winners will be selected in a random drawing.
  • Two Grand Prize Winners will receive a free copy of Reclaiming The Sky, by Tom Murphy.
  • Open to legal residents of the 50 United States and the District of Columbia who are 18 and older.
  • Book is valued at $21.95.
  • Click here for complete Official Rules.

This post has been dedicated to all the flight attendants who continued to work during uncertain times, flight attendants who reclaimed the sky, and to the flight attendants who lost their lives on 9/11. You are not forgotten…

Terry Thames, American Airlines pilot. This is the first AA flight returning to IAD (Washington Dulles) after the skies were reopened four days after 9/11.

Photo courtesy of Tom Murphy

Times of India and circle of peace: An expat story

Even though this was Martha’s week to cover The Amazing Race, I was once again drawn into the foray of the global dash. When the teams were told to pick up The Times of India when they got to Mumbai, I flashed on my own The Times of India connection. It links to the theme of Aaron’s recent expat post and the question of expats and lifestyle.

The expat question is a complicated issue that I have thought about with every place I’ve lived overseas. One notion, I think, has something to do with intention and motivation for living in a country. We didn’t move to New Delhi, India, for example, with the intention of making India a permanent home. I also think it has to do with economics. Expats, in my mind, have more money and perks, in general, than they do when they live in their own country.

Our expat life in India was due to the teaching jobs that took us there. As expats, we were more immersed in India than if we were just traveling there, but we always knew we would eventually move on, so the experience was not the same as if we thought we’d live there for years and years. What people do with their expat experience, however, has to do with how they view living in another culture. Some people live totally surrounded by other expats, often people from their own country. Others, like us, do what they can to make the country that is not theirs feel like home and to take part in the culture as much as possible. Also, when we lived in India, our jobs offered another unique perspective.

When you work with young people like we did as teachers, one goal is to help them see themselves as part of the world community. Kelly wrote about this somewhat when she visited her friends in China and wrote about it in her series, Chinese Buffet. Often, the view happens to be of a place of privilege, but in international and American schools where kids of many nationalities come together in classrooms there is an opportunity to envision a world where everyone might get along.

There are several times when I taught overseas when this vision was evident, but the most powerful was September 11, 2002. Considering the news from Pakistan this past week, I’m reminded about that day, the hope that was generated by a bunch of middle-schoolers, and an essay I wrote about it.

The essay was published in The Times of India and since I found the link, here it is. I have no idea what happened to the paragraphing when the paper put it on-line, but you’ll get the idea. Consider this a story to carry over to the new year. It’s an expat story that offers up the potential for peace. At least if the kids who made the wooden doves that day remember what it felt like.