Destination on the edge: Mogadishu

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Mogadishu is the adventure traveler’s version of sex in public. The risk of getting caught defines the thrill. Unfortunately, the consequences cannot be compared. While a romp on your neighbor’s front lawn might get you a fine or some community service, a misstep in Somalia can cause nightmares for the rest of your life.

So, quiet simply, don’t go. If you don’t believe the United States, then listen to Canada. Listen to anybody who speaks sensibly on this. Don’t go to Somalia.

For every American who remembers October 3 and 4, 1993, Mogadishu’s Bakara Market brings a rare chill to the most resilient of spines. Visions of swarming Somalis rush into your mind, and nobody has forgotten the soldiers killed and wounded in the effort to capture warlord Mohammed Farah Aidid. The situation on the ground isn’t much better today, but if you crave increasingly greater thrills, this is about as crazy as it gets. Despite being one of the most dangerous places on Earth, you can explore Mogadishu without a military or United Nations escort. But, doing so would rank among your most foolish decisions.

The challenge begins when you are planning your trip. Online booking, you’ll realize, is a luxury still. There are some corners of the world that have been sidestepped by the internet age. In some cases, you won’t even be able to rely on the telephone. The hotels in Somalia do not take phone or online reservations, so your best bet is to find a travel agent that specializes in this sort of absurdity.

Work with the travel agent to book your flight, as well. The most reliable method appears to be chartering a flight that will drop you on a private airstrip outside the city. There is an airline that services Mogadishu via Dubai: Jubba Airways. So, if you insist on doing everything yourself, you do have options. The airline claims to have a strong safety record, but it obviously can’t help you once you’re on the ground. These days, a round trip ticket will set you back around $500. You can try to use FareCompare, but you already know that your comparing one airline to itself.

Of course, there’s a catch.

So, here’s the drill. You have to stay in Somalia for a week if you fly Jubba Airways. I tried to book a same day round trip, but had no luck (no, I wasn’t planning to buy the damned thing). Flights only pass through Mogadishu once a week, so you have to be really committed to this trip.

Flights are easier to book than accommodations. You can research hotels, but only a few are listed. So, you’ll have to take what you can get. As you make your selection, don’t sacrifice safety. There is no substitute for coming home alive. Tk appears to b the best alternative, but you will notice that security is not listed among the amenities. Also, there is another hotel with the same name – one that is considerably less desirable. Take notes, and make sure you study every detail. There are pitfalls everywhere, and some are avoidable.

There isn’t much to see and do (safely) when you cruise around Mogadishu. The main attraction is the Bakara Market, a large outdoor bazaar. You can haggle with the merchants and take full advantage of the decimated local economy. This is one place where the exchange rate will always cut your way. Also, you’ll be treading the same turf that was home to the famous operation immortalized in Mark Bowden’s Black Hawk Down. It all started at the Bakara Market.

For a unique type of shopper, the Bakara Market is nothing short of amazing. You can find deals on the basic goods that you’d normally pick up at a supermarket or drugstore, from basic medicines to food. Also, you’ll find the products that CVS just doesn’t want to carry. If you need to buy a rocket-propelled grenade (RPG), mortar or antiaircraft gun, look no farther! And, since no toy is worth a damn without batteries, there’s plenty of ammunition for sale in the Bakara Market. If you hear gunfire, someone’s probably just kicking the tires on a new AK-47. Think of it as giving Elmo one last tickle before whipping out your credit card.

It’s not all guns ‘n ammo, however. You can pick up a forged passport (for Somalia, Ethiopia or Kenya), fake birth certificates and diplomas (convince your mother you didn’t drink your tuition cash) and counterfeit currency.

Bakara Market can be crowded, and it is in a dangerous part of the world. So, you need to say alert the whole time you’re on the ground. The entire spectrum of risks – from pick-pocketing to kidnapping – is possible. Your odds improve if you don’t do anything stupid, though you violate that tenet simply by taking the trip.

Want to see what happens in the Bakara Market? Take a look below, unless you aren’t comfortable with graphic. If you can’t handle this video, though, you certainly don’t belong in Somalia.

Somalia most corrupt nation — Denmark the least

by Grant Martin on

Transparency international released their annual numbers on corruption around the world, and would you believe it, Denmark edged Zimbabwe out by 165 places to clinch the number one spot.

Each year the organization dedicated to fighting corruption compiles data from a variety of sources to publish this list as a means to raise public awareness and point to the rampant corruption around the globe. Despite the ongoing failures on Wall Street and among the upper ranks in the financial sector, this year the United states is ranked at number 18, surprisingly just above Japan. The five least countries in ascending order were:

  • Denmark
  • Sweden
  • New Zealand
  • Singapore
  • Finland

while the lowest in descending order were:

  • Afghanistan
  • Haiti
  • Iraq
  • Myanmar
  • Somalia

Incidentally, the most corrupt countries are also those with the least stable governments, poorest infrastructures and poorest economies. Funny how those things go hand in hand, isn’t it?

You can check out the wealth of statistics and better explanations of the system over at transparency.org, including a dandy corruption map and complete list of nations and their ranks.

Pirates release cruise ship hostages

by Iva Skoch on

Call me naive and uninformed, but I honestly didn’t think that pirates still operate in the world the way they do in the movies. That is obviously not the case.

According to this IHT article, the International Maritime Bureau, which tracks piracy, says that global pirate attacks rose 10 percent in 2007, marking the first increase in three years. Pirates seized more than two dozen ships off the Somali coast last year alone, AP reports. The U.S. Navy has led international patrols to try to combat piracy in the region. Last year, the guided missile destroyer USS Porter opened fire to destroy pirate skiffs tied to a Japanese tanker.

Just last Friday, pirates seized control of a French cruise ship off the coast of Somalia. Attackers stormed the 288-foot Le Ponant, in the high seas in the Gulf of Aden, as it returned without passengers–but with 30 crew members–from the Seychelles, in the Indian Ocean, toward the Mediterranean Sea. Elite French troops were sent to East Africa to bolster efforts to free the yacht captives.

According to the latest update from AP, pirates just freed those 30 hostages. The French government would not say whether any pirates were captured nor whether the vessel had been retaken.

Big in Japan: Real pirates are nothing like Johnny Depp

by Matthew Firestone on

Have you ever seen Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean?

Of course you have!

The wild and drunken antics of Johnny Depp are nothing short of hilarious, which is why Disney’s Pirates trilogy has swept the globe from Hollywood to Tokyo.

But, today’s posting isn’t about the Black Pearl, but rather the distressing fact that real pirates aren’t anything like Johnny Depp.

Since October, Somali pirates have been occupying a Japanese chemical tanker, and demanding a ransom of US$1 million (that’s dollars, not gold doubloons).

The Panama-registered MV Golden Nori was carrying an enormous amount of benzene from Singapore to Israel when it was hijacked on October 28, just off Somalia in one of the world’s most dangerous shipping lanes.

Just to be clear…

Nori (????) is a delicious Japanese snack of pressed, roasted and salted sheets of seaweed that can be eaten whole or crumpled up over just about anything.

Benzene (????????????) is a colorless, sweet-smelling and highly flammable liquid that is used as an industrial solvent.

Anyway, according to an article last week by the Nairobi division of Reuters, the pirates decided to abandon ship without hurting any of its crew.

Of course, being that real pirates and Disney pirates do have some things in common, namely that they don’t surrender without a fight, these Somali raiders weren’t so easy to shake off.

Prior to them jumping ship, the Japanese vessel was cornered by the United States navy, who fired on the speedboats pulling the Nori without prejudice.

Following their decisive victory, Lieutenant John Gay of the U.S. Navy Central Command in Bahrain gave the following statement: “All the pirates are off the vessel. The U.S. Navy has a ship nearby. We’re standing by to offer assistance.”

Sadly, there was no booty of gold and gems to be recovered from the fleeing pirates, though at least for time being, the Golden Nori and its somewhat unsexy cargo of benzene are in safer waters.

Of course, the waters around Somalia are a notorious haven for pirates, and it’s likely that other Japanese tankers (with less amusing names than the Golden Nori) will be seized in the near future.

In fact, this hijacking is actually quite unique as Somali pirates have become quite adept at demanding ransoms, and have in several cases cashed in on their bounty.

This past August, Somali pirates freed a Danish cargo ship, the MV Danica White, and its five Danish sailors in safe condition, after a security company paid a US$1.5 million ransom.

Generally speaking, ransom demands are determined by the size of the ship, its cargo and the nationalities of its crew.

Needless to say, a cool US$1.5 million can buy a seemingly limitless supply of pirate’s rum.

Of course, being that Somalia is largely controlled by Islamic fundamentalists, and that alcohol is illegal throughout most of the country, it’s a safe bet that the ransom won’t be drunken away in true Pirates of the Caribbean fashion.

Africa Travel: Somalia

by Adrienne Wilson on

Let’s let out a sigh before we touch quickly on Somalia. There is no tourism site developed for
this East African country bordering the Gulf of Aden and Indian Ocean because of the constant violence and famine.
Polo’s Bastards, notorious for going places they shouldn’t be even lists Somalia as one of the world’s most dangerous countries to visit
and suggest journalists and backpack toting vagabonds hire an armed guard if wishing to come out the country in one
piece. Pretty crazy considering these guys are the type to go just about anywhere. Lonely Planet tends to play it fairly
safe, but for them to offer not even an inch of anything to possibly think Somalia might be a safe bet means the
situation has got to be bad over there.

Stay up on events going on in the country by visiting Somalia News.