Ask Gadling: How do I pack for a trip to Antarctica?

by Andrew Evans on

No matter where you go, packing right is the first step to ensuring a positive travel experience. So, what if you’re heading off to a more extreme destination, one that very few people have ever been to? This week’s question comes from Cedric in Amarillo, Texas:

“I’ve just found out that I may be going to Antarctica at the end of the year. I have no clue what to pack but feel like I need to dress like an Eskimo. Any tips as to what I should buy or bring?“

Gadling: Antarctica is the coldest place on earth, so bear that in mind, however, know that most recreational travel to Antarctica takes place in the austral summer (November to March), which is comparatively warmer than usual with average air temperatures that hover around freezing (32°F, 0°C). That’s a whole lot warmer than either Moscow or Montreal in the winter.

View more Ask Gadling: Travel Advice from an Expert or send your question to ask [at] gadling [dot] com.

What causes discomfort in Antarctica is the wind and the wet, so preparing yourself against the elements is what matters most. The weather changes constantly, so like San Francisco or Scotland, the key to real comfort is wearing layers. Your packing list also depends on what you plan to do in Antarctica. Are you taking a cruise or are you going to live on a base? How much time will you spend outside?

DIG IN YOUR CLOSET
Before you run off and drop a thousand bucks at REI, dig deep into the back of your cluttered drawers and see what you already own. Anyone who survives a snowy North American winter should already own a lot of necessary clothing for a trip to Antarctica. That horrible homemade sweater embroidered with pineapples that you got for Christmas last year? It’ll keep you toasty and nobody will actually see it when you wear it.

UNDERWEAR
Start with the important stuff–long-sleeve long underwear is essential. The generic cotton kind you grew up with (the kind favored by Seattle grunge rockers) is fine, but the synthetic blends that wick away moisture are far superior and will keep you both warm and dry. Nylon and polyester are optimal, as is silk. Basically, you want you first layer to be warm and form-fitting so that you look and feel just like a sexy superhero.OUTERWEAR
You absolutely, positively MUST have a pair of waterproof pants–if you’re going to spend money on something, make it this outer layer (ranging from $75-$100). These can be nylon or gortex but just make sure that it’s 100% waterproof and not simply water-resistant. A strong pair of Insulated snow-boarding or ski pants add extra warmth, but if they get wet, you’ll be miserable. This light outer shell layer can be worn right over your long underwear or you can add a pair of sweat pants or nylon action pants underneath.

For your upstairs, add as many layers as you need or want: long-sleeve t-shirts, flannel button-downs, or a good, strong polar fleece. Turtlenecks with sweaters are good, but again, avoid cotton if you can help it. Wearing so many layers will cause you to sweat and wet cotton just stays wet and makes you cold. Wool outer layers will keep you very warm. Once you get to Antarctica, you can judge how many layers you’ll need to feel comfortable. Always have an extra dry layer available to add in case the wind picks up or the temperature suddenly drops (which it does frequently in Antarctica).

COAT
Obviously, the coat thing is kind of important. Realize that most coats you find at the local mall are not up to Antarctica standards. Overall, you want a parka that is fairly heavy-duty, waterproof, insulated (!), long-ish (going well past your waist) and with a drawstring hood. Zip-out insulated liners are great. Also, consider wearing a coat that’s one size too big in order to accommodate all the extra layers you’ll be wearing. Be sure you can move comfortably in it.

Please note that if you are taking a cruise, most shipping companies will include appropriate parkas for passengers, and that the United States Antarctic Program (USAP) also issues coats to its employees.

You might also want to bring a lighter, waterproof windbreaker for those times when the you are going to be particularly active or when the air is warmer.

FEET
Bring lots of dry socks–preferably long, over-the-calf socks. Thick, woolly hiking socks are good. No matter how “warm” the air is, you will often find yourself wearing two (or three) pairs of socks on your feet in order to keep your feet warm. That’s because you are likely to be walking in snow or on ice, exposing your feet to the lowest temperatures around.

Knee-high rubber boots or “wellies” (wellingtons) are the overshoe of choice for Antarctic cruisers as you will be landing from a small zodiac boat right into the waves. These provide total protection from the water but are not very warm or supportive once you’re on land. If you plan on hiking a lot, then bring a very sturdy, dependable pair of waterproof, broken-in hiking boots. Put your waterproof pants OVER your boots or wellies to avoid water seeping in.

HANDS
Bring gloves that allow you some movement which close tightly around your wrist (stuff the outer glove inside your coat sleeve to prevent cold wind from cooling your wrists). Mittens are especially warm but not everyone’s thing. Snowboarding gloves are both waterproof and durable (and my own preference). Some travelers also like to wear a pair of tight, knit gloves under a pair of mittens. Also (personally), I found my pair of neoprene wetsuit gloves allowed my hands to get warm while keeping them dry (when kayaking). Pack two pairs of gloves for your trip, and always keep one of the pairs dry and available.

HEAD & NECK
Pack a wool or polar fleece-type hat that covers your ears. Ear muffs work, too, but you always want something covering your head. Also, bring a scarf. There will be moments when you don’t need it and other moments when you’ll be readjusting and re-tying it around your neck to chase out that one little knife blade of wind. Neck gaiters are also very useful and comfortable.

CAMERA
Take your very best camera and a way to backup your pictures regularly (laptop, extra flash cards, external hard drives). Bring a dry bag and carry your camera in it as often as possible. Be vigilant in keeping your photography equipment dry. Otherwise, you’ll end up with an expensive, camera-shaped paper weight.

OTHER STUFF
Unless you’re trying to ski across the continent or circumnavigate by kayak, you don’t need a lot of specialized gear so leave the compass and MRE’s at home. What you do need is sunglasses (polarized), serious sunblock (30+ SPF), a day pack (small, light waterproof backpack with a dry pair of gloves and an extra layer), a water bottle, seasickness pills, chapstick and some intense skin moisturizer. Last of all, be sure to bring a swimsuit. Most ships and bases will have a jacuzzi, and Antarctic plunges are a common tradition.

In conclusion–don’t fall prey to the ideology that you are going on some major, unprecedented expedition and that you need to special order a ton of gear. You don’t. Antarctica in the summer is far warmer than most people expect, and as long as you have the essentials, you’ll be fine.

A photo tour of Russia’s aging wooden churches

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Ever seen an unknown sight on a postcard and had a sudden urge to visit? Professional photographer Richard Davies knows the feeling well. Davies, who specializes in architectural photography, discovered a postcard series of unique fairy-tale style wooden churches located in Northern Russia and decided he simply had to visit. The result is Wooden Churches, a series of beautiful photographs of these forgotten landmarks.

The wooden church architecture of Russia is unlike anything on earth. Largely built during the 18th and 19th Centuries, these iconic structures have weathered a storm of changes ever since, ranging from harsh winters to the churches’ abandonment during the years of Soviet Communism. Many of the structures today remain in a state of tragic disrepair, damaged by vandals, neglect and the constant barrage of the weather.

Davies’ photo collection perfectly captures the beauty and neglect of these amazing structures. The barren Russian landscapes, the sense of decay and the intricate architecture will make viewers feel like they’ve stumbled upon the remains of a fantasy civilization. It’s a great way to raise awareness for preserving these amazing landmarks before they crumble to dust.

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Gadling gear review: Arc’teryx Gamma MX Hoody

by Mike Barish on

Many people turn to a single jacket when winter weather rolls in. They have a go-to parka that keeps them warm and dry. If your winter activities are limited to commuting to work and running errands, then one such warm coat probably is all you need from November through February. But if you are as active in the winter as you are in the summer, then you know that aerobic activity can often keep you warmer than any amount of down filler can. As such, you need a coat that is breathable, water-resistant and allows for an active lifestyle.

That’s why I was excited to test out the Arc’teryx Gamma MX Hoody. Arc’teryx is known for making outdoor gear with sleek lines and durable construction. The Gamma MVX Hoody is made for alpine conditions, and, as such, provides flexibility and warmth while remaining breathable. I brought the Gamma MX Hoody to Newfoundland, Canada for some adventure activities to see if it lived up to the Arc’teryx reputation.First, the nitty gritty. The Arc’teryx MX Hoody has the stretch necessary to allow for a full range of motion. With two chest pockets, two hand pockets and one sleeve pocket, there is ample storage space. It does, however, lack an interior pocket. It is well-sealed, water-resistant and immaculately constructed. You get the impression that you could fall off of a mountain, hit every rock on the way down and the jacket would be in perfect condition (even if your body wasn’t).

The fleece lining in the Gamma MX Hoody provides ample warmth provided it is supplemented with aerobic activity to generate additional heat in your core. It is not meant to replace a solid winter coat for when you’re walking the dog or waiting in line for a movie in sub-freezing temperatures. But, if you’re snowshoeing, mountain climbing or hiking, you’ll be more than comfortable in the jacket.

The warmth and resistance to the elements come from the Polartec Power Shield softshell fabric that makes the jacket both durable and breathable. It also allows for that full-range of motion that an outdoor athlete needs.

Like almost all other Arc’teryx gear, the Gamma MX Hoody features a very slim cut. I wear a medium in virtually every other coat that I’ve worn (ranging in manufacturers from Cloudveil to Patagonia to Mountain Hardwear). Arc’teryx gear is taut and constrictive on me in anything less than a large. However, in the proper size – in this case, a large – the Gamma MX Hoody fit snugly while still allowing for several base layers to be worn comfortably.

The snug fit did pose a problem in the cuffs. Many winter coats provide Velcro straps on the cuffs to allow for adjustment in the tightness around gloves. The Gamma MX Hoody lacks these tabs. As such, the cuffs on the Gamma MX Hoody are tight, which makes taking the jacket on and off more challenging than it should be. Adjustable straps would solve this problem simply.

As you can imagine from the name, the Gamma MX Hoody comes with an attached hood. It does not retract into a pocket, so, regardless of the conditions, the hood will be hanging off of your collar. Since I much prefer a coat that allows for rolling the hood into a zipped pocket in the collar, it took some getting used to when I would find my hood uncomfortably wedged beneath my backpack. The hood is made to fit over a helmet, which is necessary considering that the jacket is intended for alpine use. However, despite being able to tighten the hood, I still found it comically large when I wasn’t wearing a helmet. Despite attempts to tighten it fully, the hood often billowed over my head and would fall off as I walked. This would expose my neck and face to snow and rain.

As always, I like to boil things down to the basics:

Pros

  • Outstanding construction and incredible durability
  • Flexibility allows for full range of motion
  • Plenty of pockets
  • Water-resistant and well-sealed
  • Fleece lining provides warmth to supplement aerobic heat

Cons

  • Slim cut may create a tighter fit than expected
  • Tight cuffs with no adjustable straps
  • Hood is large and does not retract into the collar

Overall, this is a fantastic coat if you maintain an active lifestyle in cold weather. While it is not a replacement for a heavy parka, it is an excellent addition to the gear collection of any winter adventurer. The jacket provides ample warmth once you start your activities and is built to last. However, I strongly recommend that you try it on in person, as Arc’teryx products are cut much slimmer than other outdoor gear brands.

You can purchase the Gamma MX Hoody directly from the Arc’tery website for $379.00. The durability of the coat will surely ensure that it pays for itself over years of aggressive use.

Gadling gear review: Cloudveil Koven Plus Down Jacket

by Mike Barish on

$500. That’s all I could think about as I tested the Cloudveil Koven Plus Down Jacket. That’s a lot of money for a jacket. For $500, I expect a jacket to exceed all of my expectations. It has to have virtually no flaws. For me to recommend a $500 jacket, it has to be perfect (or, at least, perfect in terms of what it is attempting to achieve).

With a trip to New Brunswick and Newfoundland, Canada on my radar, I was eager to see if the Cloudveil Koven Plus truly was a $500, perfect jacket. As the trip approached, I eagerly checked the weather forecast for Atlantic Canada and was actually excited to see the frigid temperatures predicted for my time in the Acadian Peninsula. The Koven Plus was going to get put to the test and I’d finally be able to decide if a $500 jacket really was “perfect.” When the time came, I took the Koven Plus to Canada for a week of outdoor activities in the middle of February. What I discovered is that price doesn’t always dictate quality.Let me make one point very clear: Cloudveil typically makes fantastic products. The exterior of the Koven Plus is incredibly well-made. All of the seams are sealed. The zippers are water-resistant. It provides a snug-but-not-tight fit. It’s incredibly durable. And it is warm. Incredibly warm. My first several days in New Brunswick welcomed me with temperatures that hovered around 15°F with wind chills making it feel as if it was below zero. The Koven Plus kept my core warm and dry while still being breathable enough to not stifle me the moment I walked indoors.

It also packs a plethora of pockets. Two chest pockets, two hand-warming pockets, one sleeve pocket and one interior pocket. They are all roomy and feature zippers that handled the intense tugging that occurs when you try to open a pocket while wearing thick gloves. And the sleeve pocket is a perfect place to store lip balm, which is necessary in cold, dry and windy conditions.

But after a few days, I started to notice an alarming trend when I removed the Koven Plus. My top layer of clothing would be covered in feathers. I’m not talking about a few rogue feathers that managed to leak out of the jacket. I looked like I had just gone 12 rounds with a goose. And I couldn’t help but linger on my initial thought: A $500 jacket better be perfect. To have it leak down every single time it’s worn is a major disappointment. At that price point, the jacket should not show such early signs of deterioration, let alone from the inside out.

I also was alarmed by another flaw that I had never encountered on a coat before. While kitesurfing on the frozen Bay of Chaleur, I removed my camera from one of the chest pockets only to find that the it was damp. I checked the pocket to make sure that nothing else was inside that could be leaking. But it was empty. I assumed that I must have gotten some snow on my gloves and then gotten the camera wet. Later, however, I removed my Chapstick from the sleeve pocket with my bare hand and noticed that it, too, was wet. I slid my hand into the chest pockets to find that moisture had accumulated inside both of them, as well. Somehow, condensation was getting trapped in the pockets. While I appreciate the seal around the seams and zippers, having my expensive gear become damp rather than be protected in my pockets was very disconcerting.

As the trip continued and my adventure activities kept me outdoors, I continued to get covered in down and while my gear got covered in condensation. I was warm but frustrated. For $500, a jacket needs to do more than keep me warm. It needs to protect my gear and become an integral part of my winter wardrobe. But it’s hard to wear a jacket all the time when you fear that it’s going to leave you looking like a goose molester.

Let’s break it all down:

Pros

  • Incredibly warm
  • Exterior is durable and water-resistant
  • Abundant pockets
  • Excellent fit

Cons

  • Leaks an alarming amount of feathers
  • Condensation forms and is trapped inside the pockets (posing a major risk to electronic gear)

Sure, the pros outnumber the cons, but the magnitude of those negatives is too great to ignore. It all comes back to that price. For $500, those two negatives are major deal-breakers. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend the Koven Plus Down Jacket until Cloudveil addresses these two major issues.

If you are interested in the Cloudveil Koven Plus Down Jacket, it is available on the company’s website for [sigh] $500. At the time of this article’s publication, it was out of stock. However, Cloudveil products are also sold at most outdoor gear suppliers.

The best of the best in Mammoth, CA

by Stephen Greenwood on

Hours in between Yosemite National Park and the highest mountain in the 48 contiguous states lies an action-packed town called Mammoth Lakes.

Don’t be surprised if you haven’t heard of it; Mammoth Mountain has remained a secret for many on the West Coast due to its remote location in the Eastern Sierras. Though it has always been popular for skiers and boarders from Los Angeles and SoCal, seasonal flights have started to trickle into Mammoth in recent years, quickly making it California’s next premier destination for winter sports. I went out to Mammoth to experience everything that the mountain has to offer and brought back the best of the best for you right here.


Best time to go. If your schedule permits, the best time to plan a trip to Mammoth is during a full moon. Aside from the obvious romance of snowcapped Sierras lit up by the moonlight, the Tamarack Cross Country Ski Center offers seasonal full moon snowshoe tours guided by a bona fide Swiss Alpinist. The tour will take you through the woods to a seldom visited ridge where you can take in views of the entire Mammoth Lakes area; a genuinely memorable experience. The only thing that tops it is the cozy finish of a hot cup of cider by the fire in the Tamarack lodge.

Biggest non-boarding thrill. Sign up for a snowmobile tour from Mammoth Snowmobile Adventures and take a guided thrill-ride through Mammoth’s 300 miles of snowmobile trails. The highlight is an unbounded excursion through powdery snow fields and an oval snowmobile track. The guided tours last 90 minutes, which is just about as much time as you’ll want to spend on the machines before returning to the Yodler for the end of the day activities.

Best way to get there. Without a doubt, Horizon Air’s seasonal services from Los Angeles and Seattle / San Jose are the best ways to get to Mammoth. With one-way fares as low as $39 on slow days, there’s nothing that beats a 55-minute flight over the snowcapped Sierras. The best and most under-promoted feature of the service is the fact that Mammoth Mountain will give you a free lift ticket on the same day as your flight from San Jose or Portland if you present your boarding pass at the lift ticket window. You can be trapped in Southern California smog in the morning and on top of California’s tallest ski resort in the afternoon; need I say more?

Best off-mountain adventure. Since Mammoth Lakes is a geologically active region on the edge of the Long Valley Caldera, there are dozens of natural hot springs to discover and take a wintertime dip in. The best advice? Ask a local where to go and you’ll get pointed in the right direction for hot springs that are near (and safe) for taking a dip.

Best chair on the mountain. Want the best untracked powder and tree runs while staying away from the busy weekend lift lines? Cut to the south side of the mountain for the Cloud Nine Express. For years, this corner of the mountain was serviced by a painfully slow double-chair lift that was replaced in 2007 with a high-speed six-person chair. Because of its location on the mountain, the chair rarely accumulates large lift lines despite its choice terrain and remains one of Mammoth’s best kept secrets.

Best Aprés Ski. One of the great aspects of Mammoth is that there are plenty of options in close proximity for skiers to unwind and cozy up after a long day on the mountain. The best seat in the house? The Yodler Bar & Pub’s fireside lounge. This historic building across from the Main Lodge has tasty aprés ski beverages and snacks, a lively crowd, and a cozy atmosphere. Catch a 6pm shuttle outside the Yodler for an easy ride back to the village before the nightlife gets started.

Best dinner table. There are plenty of diverse spots in and around Mammoth to grab a solid meal, but if you’re looking for something above and beyond, the table to have is a cozy spot next to the fireplace at Petra’s, just across from Mammoth’s village complex. The wine bar is highly recommended, the service is great, and the food is enough to impress the packs of highly discerning LA socialites that frequent Mammoth’s slopes.

If Petra’s is full, or you’re looking to commemorate a special occasion, then consider making the journey out to the Lakefront Restaurant at the Tamarack Lodge. The dining room is delightfully tiny and the food is meticulously prepared by Chef de Cuisine Frederic Pierrel. The atmosphere alone is definitely worth the 10 minute drive from the center of town; even if it’s only to have a warm drink in the lounge with some tasteful jazz buzzing in the background.

Best nightlife. Perhaps it’s the LA blood that trickles through the mountain, but Mammoth loves to party. If you still have enough energy to venture out after dark, there are a few fun options for socializing and finding a new ski partner to pair up with – and the best news is that they’re all in walking distance to the Village. The brand-new Hyde Restaurant & Bar has a great-looking crowd and LA-priced (read: expensive) bottle service to match. It seems a little out of place in a mountain town like Mammoth, but naturally attracts a very specific clientele.

If you prefer a more local & low-key vibe, then head down to the Clocktower Cellar Pub where pool tables, jukeboxes and cheap draft beer will help loosen your sore hamstring muscles. There’s plenty of dancing to be had at Lakanuki, but if you’re over 30 it’s likely that you’ll be feeling out of place among the throngs of college kids and Hawaiian decor.

Best way to stay connected. Anything but AT&T. Everything from 3G to basic cell reception with AT&T is appalling in and around most places in Mammoth – except on the actual slopes. Verizon and T-Mobile seem fine, but iPhone customers should be running to download the “Mark the Spot” application to file complaints with the provider. While this is solely AT&T’s problem, it’s a sign that Mammoth is still transitioning into being a major resort/destination. But it’s also a convenient excuse for why you “couldn’t be reached” all weekend.


Stephen Greenwood ventured out to Mammoth Lakes on a trip sponsored by the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area. No editorial content was guaranteed and Stephen was free to openly report on his experiences (pending his survival of the outdoor winter activities that demand motor skills he generally lacks).