Food crawl in New York’s Chinatown: meat on a stick edition


The man with the gas mask recommended I get the lamb. As smoke from the charcoal grill wafted heavenward, up from his cart toward the Manhattan Bridge, I stood there having an internal debate. There was a special that day: chicken hearts. Or should I just get the lamb and move on to my next stop?

Welcome to Lamb on a Stick, also known as Xinjiang Kebabs. It’s a misnomer for sure, as this cart, anchored until around 9pm on most days on the corner of Forsythe and Division Streets next to the Manhattan Bridge in New York City’s Chinatown, serves up an array or carnal delights, all attached to a stick. Nearly everything I’ve eaten here has been almost transcendent: the lamb, for starters, is unctuous and juicy. But why stop there? The griller (the guy keeping the smoke out of his face with a gasmask or his non-mask-wearing wife) is also quite skilled when it comes to chicken wings, beef, and partridge. Since I discovered the cart a few months ago, I’ve been back every week, hoping to try everything here. And at $1 per stick, it’s very possible to get full on the cheap.

Xinjiang Kebabs is just one of a handful of places in Chinatown I’ve found since I decided to regularly eat my way through the neighborhood. The Atlantic recently ran an article claiming Chinatowns in America as we know them–In New York, San Francisco, Washington, DC, for example–are dying; a collective relic of a time when China was poor and its citizens clamored for a better life by retreating to American shores. But with China’s economic rise, so the logic of the article goes, there will be less immigration. And as the population of these ethic enclaves in American cities grows old, they will cease to exist. Or be taken over by another immigrant population (see New York’s Little Italy).

Whether the Atlantic piece is prophetic or not, it got me thinking that there are a lot of restaurants in Chinatown, some of questionable quality and some very good ones. How to figure out which ones to go to and which to avoid? I decided to go find my very own canon of Chinatown restaurants. Starting, of course, with Xingjiang Kebabs. The next place I usually hit up after a couple sticks of meat is the Malaysian beef jerky spot. At Malaysia Beef Jerky, Inc., located at 95 Elizabeth St., you won’t find a Slim Jim or that dried jerky we grew up masticating on. This is moist and tender and just spicy enough to dazzle the palate.


But before I headed there, I had a decision to make at the cart: I said yes to the chicken hearts, which were grilled perfectly. The taut exterior gave way to a burst of flavor. I also opted for the lamb and beef. Two sticks each.

Not yet full, I would head on to the Malaysian beef jerky spot and then, as per usual, stop off for some soup dumplings and then maybe one or two other out-of-the-way spots. Just another food crawl in Chinatown.

[Photo credit: Kirsten Alana]

Austin’s Beard and Moustache Competition: Q&A with Allen Demling and Bryan Nelson

For the sixth year in a row, a popular Beard and Moustache Competition was held in Austin. Misprint Magazine, a delightfully snarky read based out of Austin, has sponsored each one of these competitions thus far. Held Saturday night at The Mohawk in Austin, the event attracted throngs of beard-loving people, ready for an eagerly awaited raucous night. With categories like ‘Gnarliest Beard’, ‘Sweetest ‘Stache’, ‘Freestyle Facial Hair’, ‘Ladies!’, ‘Fiercest Chops’, ‘Best Groomed’, and ‘Six Month Sprint’, it comes as no surprise to me that an event like this garners such enthusiasm within the community of Austin. Many people I know in Austin are involved in the ‘bearding’ scene–it’s difficult, I reckon, to live in Austin and not meet people involved in this hairy subculture. And yet, despite knowing so many people in this town who are facial hair hobbyists, the history and purpose of the beard craze specific to Austin has too long eluded me. Thankfully, Allen Demling and Bryan Nelson, both judges for Misprint’s Annual Beard and Moustache Competition and members of the Austin Facial Hair Club, took a moment to answer some of my questions about bearding and related competitions in Austin.

%Gallery-148773%ES: When did you start growing your beard and what motivated you to grow it so long?

AD: I originally grew a beard my senior year in college because I was tired of shaving so often. That beard didn’t last too long. After I graduated I lived in Chicago, and would grow a winter beard every year. I was working for a consulting firm, and after about 2-3 months of growth someone would come to me and hint that I should probably shave it soon. After a couple years working there I finally couldn’t handle the cold winters and moved to Austin. Austin is one of those unique cities where there really isn’t much that is unacceptable. This current beard I’ve had for about 6 years, which is by far the longest I’ve ever grown one. Right after I started growing it, Misprint Magazine started their annual Beard and Moustache Competition. It wasn’t until the 3rd year that I finally won, and after that I became a judge, so shaving wasn’t really an option. I don’t have any plans to shave any time soon.

ES: Given the climate of Austin, it seems surprising that facial hair could take such a hold on locals. What is it that keeps so many Austin men growing and grooming despite the often hot and sticky weather?

AD: I don’t think beards are as uncomfortable as many people think. Personally, I think long hair would be more uncomfortable in the summers because it lays on your neck and shoulders, whereas a beard generally dangles nicely off the chin without plastering itself all over your body. Also, as I mentioned before, Austin is a pretty accepting city, so there isn’t as much “beard shaming” as there is in many other places.

ES: How did the Beard and Moustache Competition begin?

AD: The Misprint Beard and Moustache Competition originally started as a tongue in cheek parody of the burgeoning beard scene in Austin. Since that first competition, however, it has ironically become one of the biggest and most anticipated beard competitions in the country. What other competition could get Billy Fucking Gibbons to show up two years in a row? The answer is none.

ES: What’s in it for participants?

AD: Really the only thing in it for the participants is glory. There are some prizes, usually from local businesses, but being able to share the stage with Matt Bearden in front of 1200 people is reward enough for most people.

ES: Bryan, your bio on the AFHC says you’re studio engineer, musician, and record label owner. Can you tell us more about your musical endeavors? Has your long beard ever gotten in the way on stage, in the studio, or otherwise?

BN: I moved to Austin in 1993 attracted by the music lifestyle. I started studio work in 1995 at a studio called Sweatbox in downtown Austin, and have played in several bands along the way… Sister Run Naked, Peglegasus, School Trauma Flashback, Kytsch, The Pallbearers, Gorch Fock, Creeperweed, The Snake Trap, just to name a few… Austin is a good place if you want to play a lot of music. An interesting current music endeavor is the AFHC Christmas Album that we will release next fall… a bunch of silly, original Christmas songs about beards. Allen Demling on washboard!!! My beard is long enough so it gets caught up in my drumsticks sometimes if I’m playing drums, or gets caught on microphones too… that is annoying. If I am playing guitar sometimes sometimes I will yank out a few hairs while strumming, which might be a reason that my beard length kind of hovers around wear my strings are… when that happens it is like a sudden electric shock on my face, which is distracting to say the least. Engineering-wise, wrapping up cables is the worse. I have to tuck my beard into my shirt or else it gets yanked out by the rubber cables while I wrap them. All this being said, having a beard is pretty fun and the occupational hazards are totally worth it.

ES: You have some beard awards under your belt. How do you prepare for these kinds of competitions?

BN: Well, there is only so much preparation or training that one can do… I try to dress comfortably and try to stay focused on the fact that it is a silly concept, a beard contest. I might wear some lucky underwear, or try to think of an old classic rock song that gets me pumped. Having a bunch of my friends around always helps too.

ES: Beard-growing and the art of facial hair seem like fun things to engage in, generally speaking, but are there other elements of the facial hair community and culture that keep you involved?

BN: There are a lot of beard teams and clubs in the world now, and every major competition is a huge family reunion. The Austin Facial Hair Club stays busy nearly year round raising funds to get our team members to the various competitions. We meet twice a month and keep our merchandise up to date, those things alone keep us busy and involved. There are also several online groups for beard wearers/lovers, and a slow but steady stream of media inquiries from various sources and angles. Facial hair is fun, and it is a warm and inviting community as long as you don’t take it and yourself too seriously.

ES: What is a Lifetime Achievement Award for Beardness?

BN: A few years back the other AFHC guys came up with this surprise award for me at the Misprint competition. They had gotten all of these ancient photos of me, with help from my wife, and put together a slide show of my bearded life. I was shocked; it was awesome. I am a lucky guy to have such great, fun friends.

Genghis Khan exhibit in Chicago the biggest ever

A new exhibition at the Field Museum in Chicago spotlights the world’s greatest conqueror.

Genghis Khan brings together the largest collection of 13th century Mongol artifacts ever. The exhibition traces the career of Genghis Khan from his birth in 1162, to a noble but obscure family, through his conquest of an empire that was larger than the Roman Empire. In fact, it was the largest ever, stretching from the Pacific Ocean to the gates of Vienna, and he built it in just 25 years.

More than 200 objects are on display including a Mongolian house, silk robes, weapons, and even the mummy of a Mongolian noblewoman.

The exhibition shows that while Genghis Khan was a bloodthirsty warrior, he was a clever statesman too. He established a complex and efficient form of government, a postal system, paper currency, diplomatic immunity, even wilderness preserves and laws against littering. His conquests had a profound impact on the development of Asia and Europe.

Genghis Khan runs until September 3.

Photo courtesy the Field Museum.

A Traveler in the Foreign Service: the lovesick American who needed a loan. Twice.

Did you know that the U.S. State Department provides emergency repatriation loans (ERL) for destitute Americans overseas that need help getting home? The loans are intended for Americans who find themselves short of cash or a return ticket home due to some unforeseen circumstance- theft, illness and the like. If approved, the State Department will provide travelers with a one-way ticket back to the U.S. and money to cover their expenses prior to their departure. The rub is that their passport is limited for a single entry back to the U.S. and if they don’t repay the loan, they won’t get a new one.

The State Department doesn’t advertise the program for obvious reasons. In FY 2008, State processed 893 ERL’s worldwide, with a majority coming to assist travelers in Europe and Latin America. From what I gather, most loans are repaid as travelers don’t want to lose their right to get a new passport.

When you work at an American embassy in a country that “normal” American tourists don’t visit, you have an opportunity to meet some, shall we say, unique travelers who often have quite unusual stories of how they washed up in that country. When I worked in Macedonia, we were also responsible for Americans in Kosovo, not exactly a tourist magnet, particularly in the wake of the war there.

Most of the American citizens who came into the embassy for one reason or another were naturalized Americans of Albanian or Macedonian origin, but the American-born citizens who came to Macedonia or Kosovo despite having no connection to the region usually had the most interesting stories. One woman, whom I’ll call Juliet, became such a familiar face that she was practically an honorary member of our staff.

Juliet turned up one day in 2003 at the U.S. Office in Pristina (now an embassy) and fainted after causing a fuss about needing money to get back to the U.S. After helping revive her, local staff there instructed her to visit us down in Skopje.

Juliet told me that she was in Kosovo “just to check the place out.” Her explanation for why she had only a one-way ticket to Kosovo made even less sense.

In order to process a loan for an American traveler, the traveler has to provide the names and phone numbers of three persons who might agree to help them first. Juliet, who was 51 at the time, gave me the contact info for her mother, an adult daughter, and her brother. But she warned that “they ain’t going to give me a dime.”

Nonetheless, I was required to try.

“Good lord, I’m on a fixed income and she is taking years off of my life!” Juliet’s mother said. “Tell me, is she over there screwing around with some young man?”I had no idea and moved on to the brother and the daughter, both of whom told me to get lost.

“She’s been fleecing all of us for years,” her brother said. “She is the world’s biggest 50-year-old child.”

With the three rejections in hand, I was able to process her loan of about $800. When she walked out of the embassy, I assumed I’d never see her again, but about six months later she resurfaced at the embassy.

“What brings you back to the region?” I asked.

“You’re not going to believe this,” she said. “But I fell in love.”

She went on to detail how she’d fallen in love with a handsome 20-year old Kosovar whom she’d met on a website for the band The Doors. As soon as she said this, Jim Morrison’s voice popped into my head. Hello, I love you won’t you tell me your name.

Juliet said she had married the young man and wanted to file an immigrant visa petition to bring her young lover, more than thirty years her junior, back to the U.S. But first she wanted another loan to get home, only this time she said she wanted to go to Hawaii, rather than Tennessee.

“I paid the last one,” she reassured me.

“But why on earth did you come back here with another one-way ticket?” I asked.

“I thought we were going to get married and live happily ever after in Kosovo,” she said.
But her young lover had visions of Hawaiian palm trees dancing in his head and insisted they get out of Kosovo. He was obviously marrying her for the right to live in the U.S. but Juliet seemed to be the only person who didn’t understand this.

I checked with contacts back in Washington and was told that we could give her a loan to get to Tennessee but not Hawaii, since she had no proof that she was domiciled there. I called her mother, brother and daughter again and they told me the same thing as six months before, only more forcefully.

“Hell no!” her brother said. “I’m not paying so she can travel around with her boy toy.”

Juliet got her loan, but this time my boss told me that she wanted me to physically escort her to the airport to make sure she actually left the country. As luck would have it, her flight left Skopje at 7 A.M. on a Saturday morning, so I had to meet her at her hotel at 5 A.M.

I turned up at her budget hotel at the appointed time and asked the reception clerk to ring up to her room. The phone kept ringing but she didn’t answer. I hoped that she was in the shower and hadn’t skipped town. I had her plane ticket, so I assumed she was there, but couldn’t be sure. Eventually, I walked up to her room and knocked on the door. She answered in a bathrobe, looking haggard and un-showered, and I could see her young partner lying on the bed in a pair of boxers. Yikes.

“We’re almost ready,” she said, not very convincingly.

Her husband, whom I’ll call Blerim, wasn’t going to the States, at least not yet. She needed to get her financial house in order to sponsor him, but apparently he was coming along for the ride to the airport.

They eventually emerged from their love nest but resumed their ostentatious cuddling and smooching in the back seat and then in the terminal itself, before she boarded the plane. About a year later, Juliet finally had her paperwork together and Blerim joined her in her new home in Hawaii, where she’d found work as a nurse. I assume that they lived happily ever after, at least until he got his green card and left her for someone his own age.

Read more from A Traveler in the Foreign Service here.

Image via mtarlock on Flickr.

Lomography launches travel photography competition

Lomography has teamed up with Virginia is for Lovers for a new photo competition that will award the most talented camera-toting travelers the chance to win limited edition cameras and vacations in Virginia. Called “Love Unexpected,” the year-long competition marks the first time Lomography has partnered with a tourism office for a special promotion.

The competition combines the analog philosophy of Lomography with the nostalgic vibe of Virginia’s small towns, which are full of places such as chromed-out diners, drive-in theaters, and other roadside wonders. Playing off of Virginia’s age-old tagline, “Virginia is for Lovers,” all entrants have to do submit photographs of things that they love that go along with a monthly theme. Ten winners a month will win a camera branded with the Virginia is for Lovers theme, and from those shutterbugs four grand prize winners will be chosen to partake in themed vacations in Virginia. Themes include a “Roadside Wonders” trip, the “Wines Brews, and Spirits” trip, an “Old School Seaside Eats” trip, and the “Music Jams” trip, where the winner will be dubbed the “official event photographer for Virginia is for Lovers” at the 2012 Floyd Fest.

More information on the contest, which runs through December 2012, can be found at www.virginia.lomography.com. If you’d like to purchase the limited edition camera, they are on sale for $109 online.

Image courtesy Virginia is for Lovers / Lomography.