A Traveler in the Foreign Service: (Not so) sexy time

Hugh Hefner wouldn’t make a very good Foreign Service Officer (FSO). FSO’s serving overseas need to disclose information about their lovers to the embassy’s Regional Security Officer (RSO), who in turn conduct investigations on foreign-born romantic partners to ensure that they aren’t likely to blackmail or manipulate them. There are no secrets and playboys tend to crash and burn before their careers can take off.

Managing relationships in the Foreign Service can be a travail, even for the monogamous. I was (and still am) happily married during my tenure in the service, but I have second-hand experience with this topic, vis-à-vis single and divorced former colleagues.

The expatriate experience tends to test marriages in a way that everyday life in the U.S. might not, and weak relationships don’t last long. My wife and I arrived at our first post as newlyweds and found that we needed to rely on each other more so than at home. When you arrive in a new country with no friends or relatives to fall back on, you spend an inordinate amount of time with your spouse and don’t have the same support network you would at home. In our case, and for many other couples, the experience brought us close together, cementing our bond. But that is not always the case.

I’ve heard people say that divorce rates in the Foreign Service are high, but I’m not sure they’re any higher than they are in the general population. But in the fishbowl world of the Foreign Service, where the line between one’s personal and work life is often blurred, divorce can take a toll on careers.

A former colleague told me that after he separated from his wife and arrived at a new post single, everyone seemed to already know his story. He said he was “the object of huge curiosity and scrutiny.”But it’s probably even harder for single women trying to pursue relationships in the service. Of the single men I know who joined the service, many found spouses while serving overseas, but most of the single women I know who joined in the last 5-10 years are still single, not all of them by choice. FSO’s typically move every 2-3 years, and many women find it difficult to find men in developing countries who are interested in a career woman whom they’d have to follow around the world. And even if they do find someone of interest, a moment of truth arrives at the end of the tour. When you live in Uganda and are off to Honduras next, what to do?

A single female I know told me that everyone knew who she was sleeping with at most of the overseas posts she’s served at. “You think the walk of shame is bad?” she wrote to me, in response to a question about the difficulty of dating in the Foreign Service. “Try having to call your Sudanese driver in the morning to pick you up in an armored Suburban. Talk about humiliating.” She said the “logistics” of Foreign Service life made it impossible for her to settle down.

At some posts, FSO’s live on a gated compound adjacent to the mission, and if one wants to bring home a lover to spend the time, they have to present an I.D. to an armed guard and pass through metal detectors and submit to being frisked on the way in. Not much of an aphrodisiac to say the least.

Some FSO’s, most commonly men, who might be considered slightly less-than-marketable products on the dating scene at home, do manage to trade up for attractive spouses they find in developing countries. Everyone has a story about a dorky guy with a lovely wife but, in reality, people marry for all kinds of reasons, including for money or status, even in the U.S., so odd relationships certainly aren’t the sole provenance of the expatriate or FSO.

Many a potentially good career in the Foreign Service has been ruined by philandering. Some lose their security clearances for serial cheating, which is thought to make one vulnerable to blackmail; others simply destroy their corridor reputations. The lack of privacy can be daunting, but, in reality, it probably encourages FSO’s to be faithful to their spouses, which is obviously a good thing.

The State Department has made strides of late in helping gay and straight FSO’s who live with unmarried partners, but trying to live overseas with what are called MOH’s (members of household) is also a huge challenge. FSO spouses, considered EFM’s (eligible family members) in the government’s acronym happy parlance, typically enjoy full diplomatic status overseas and can travel to posts at government expense. But MOH’s do not.

All this said, experiencing a new culture with a spouse or a new lover can be an awful lot more exciting than a stay-at-home marriage or trying one’s luck on eHarmony. But if you’re thinking of joining to the Foreign Service because you want to live like Heff, think again.

Read more from A Traveler in the Foreign Service here.

Image via Horrible Giant Jungle Flea on Flickr.

Culinary Cab Confessions: New York City edition

Ali found me lingering on the corner of Christopher St. and Seventh Ave. S. in the West Village. Before I recently moved out of the neighborhood I’d spent eight years hailing cabs in this very spot. But no ride was probably ever as unusual (or short) as this one.

He laughed when he heard my request. That I wanted him to take me to lunch; to take me the place where he goes. I reminded him about the reputation that taxi drivers had: that they know the best cheap eats in a city. It just has to be a place you go to regularly, I told him. Ali stroked his long grey beard and said, “I know a place. I just went there this morning and had my soup.”


Ali said he’s originally from Istanbul but he’s been driving a cab in New York for 40 years. With that kind of experience behind him, his lunch-finding credibility is huge. Before I could think about it anymore we were stopped at the curb. “That’ll be $3.80,” he said. Really? We were here already? Right here on McDougal St. between Bleecker and W. 3rd Sts.? I had envisioned (and was ready for) an epic ride out to, perhaps, Gravesend, Brooklyn, or Rego Park, Queens to discover an out-of-the-way gem of an eatery. But right here in my own backyard?

“That’s right,” Ali said. “It’s very good Turkish food. Please say hi to Cem, the owner for me.” Which taught me something: the ethnicity of the driver is largely going to determine where I’m taken to eat. At least in New York. I invited Ali join me, but he refused. “It’s too hard to find a place to park here,” he said. I paid the fare and got out. As I was walking into Turkiss, Ali rolled down his window and yelled out to me: “Get the lamb.”
Turkiss, which has a small menu of doner kabobs, lentil soup, and borek, only has two tables. I took Ali’s advice and ordered a lamb doner sandwich. It was a simple concoction: lettuce, tomato, hot sauce, and super juicy, thinly sliced lamb stuffed into a pita. I have to admit: I don’t eat doner kabobs very often. But this was one of the best I’ve ever had. The lamb juice was dripping down my arm after a few bites and I was tempted to lick it off. I wanted to order seconds like the two construction workers sitting next to me. Instead, I just decided to make sure I come back. After all, Turkiss is just around the corner from my office at New York University.

But, I wondered, why hadn’t I heard of this place before? I’ve walked down this street hundreds of times. McDougal St., still associated with the 1960s when Bob Dylan and Co. were hanging around these parts, doesn’t have the best culinary reputation. The street is flanked by casual eateries catering to NYU students. There are a few go-to spots, though: Mahmoud’s Falafel has a loyal following (even though, despite the protests of one particular food-loving friend of mine, I think it’s overrated); there’s Artichoke pizza; (the impossible-to-get in-to) Minetta Tavern; and Saigon Shack (one of the best places to get a banh mi in the Big Apple). But otherwise, everything else is largely forgettable here.


It turns out, Turkiss is only a week old (despite a plan to open months ago). When Cem (pronounced like Jim), the owner, told me this, I said: “And Ali already knows about it?”

“Well, you know taxi drivers,” he said. “They always know about the best places to eat.”

Cruise line makes offer, gets sued, waits

The cruise line that owns Costa Concordia is trying to move forward, past recovery and initial assistance efforts to make an offer to non-injured passengers. Still without conclusive forensic reasons or blame placed for the tragic grounding of January 13, Costa Cruises faces legal action as it and the entire cruise industry review safety standards.

The families of those who died, passengers that were injured and crew members will be handled on a case by case basis. For everyone else, the line is offering:

  • A lump sum of 11,000 euros (about $14,500) per person as indemnification, covering all patrimonial and nonpatrimonial damages, including loss of baggage and personal effects, psychological distress and loss of enjoyment of the cruise vacation;
  • Reimbursement of the value of the cruise, including harbor taxes;
  • Reimbursement of air and bus transfers included in the cruise package
  • Full reimbursement of travel expenses to reach the port of embarkation and return home;
  • Reimbursement of any medical expenses resulting from the cruise;
  • Reimbursement of expenses incurred on board during the cruise.

Almost simultaneously, crew member Gary Lobaton off Costa Concordia has filed a complaint in the federal court of Chicago seeking class-action status in a $multi-million lawsuit.

“The defendants failed to properly and timely notify all plaintiffs on board of the deadly and dangerous condition of the cruise ship as to avoid injury and death,” Lobaton said in the complaint. The passengers and crew “were abandoned by the captain.”

Meanwhile, Fox News reports six passengers off the stricken cruise ship filed a complaint against Carnival Corporation, parent company of ship owner Costa Cruises, in a Miami court demanding $460 million in compensation.

Maritime law experts say such actions probably won’t go far. Similar attempts to sue in the U.S. have been turned away by the U.S. Supreme Court and the expense of filing in a foreign court is often too great. Between the liability limitation clauses of the passenger contract cruise travelers agree to by booking passage on a cruise ship and the nearly-exempt status of foreign flagged cruise ships, cruise lines have themselves covered.


“It’s well-settled law,” said Jerry Hamilton, a maritime attorney who regularly defends cruise lines against lawsuits in STLToday. “The Supreme Court has said those clauses are valid clauses. They will be upheld.”

Still, the cruise industry moves on and the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), a trade group that represents the interests of 26 member lines, announced a global safety review in answer to questions raised by the Costa Concordia grounding.

Key components of the Review include:

  1. An internal review by CLIA members of their own operational safety practices and procedures concerning issues of navigation, evacuation, emergency training, and related practices and procedures.
  2. Consultation with independent external experts.
  3. Identification and sharing of industry best practices and policies, as well as possible recommendations to the IMO for substantive regulatory changes to further improve the industry’s operational safety.
  4. Collaboration with the IMO, governments and regulatory bodies to implement any necessary regulatory changes.

“While the cruise industry has an outstanding safety record, CLIA is fully committed to understanding the factors that contributed to the Concordia incident and is proactively responding to all maritime safety issues,” the organization said in a statement, adding “The Cruise Industry Operational Safety Review will enable the industry to do so in a meaningful and expedited manner.”

How this story ends, how much compensation will be given or awarded, will have a lot to do with conclusive results of investigations underway involving the captain of the ship and black box evidence of what really happened.

For now, concerned parties wait while preliminary operations to pump fuel out of the cruise ship were suspended Saturday due to bad weather. Workers decided the sea was too rough to continue the salvage operation.


Flickr photo by Cyr0z

Win a year’s supply of beer at the Whitefish Winter Carnival

For more than five decades, the Whitefish Winter Carnival has been an annual tradition in Whitefish, Montana. The 2012 edition of the event takes place next weekend, and will once again feature parades, ski competitions, a dip in the frigid waters of the nearby lake, and prankster Yetis out to kidnap the Snow Queen. The Carnival will also play host to a unique, one of a kind, competition known as the Black Star Barter, which asks competitors what they would do – or trade – for a year’s supply of beer.

On Saturday, February 4th, a group of daring, wild, and downright crazy contestants will gather at the Great Northern Brewing Company, where they’ll be given a chance to convince a panel of judges that they deserve to win 52 cases of Black Star Beer. They’ll show off amazing hidden talents, offer up prized possessions, and generally try to charm the judges into awarding them the prize. Competitors will be rated on creativity, thoughtfulness, enthusiasm, and overall awesomeness.

Last year, more than 1000 spectators gathered to watch the Barter, which featured a five-year-old harmonica player and his singing dog, a man who turned his nose into a piggy bank, and a family of four who were willing to part with their two egg-laying chickens and a hog. In the end though, the year’s supply of beer went to a creative duo who came up with a series of hilarious radio commercials extolling the virtues of Black Star.

So, what would you be willing to trade or do to win a year’s supply of beer? Do you have an impressive talent or precious item you’d be willing to give up for 52 cases of Black Star? If so, there is still time to get yourself to Montana in time to compete in the 2012 edition of the Barter. You just might go home with enough beer to stock your fridge for months to come.


10 Austin landmarks in Austin High


Austin landmarks in Austin High, the movie, aren’t difficult to find. The city’s tried, true, and loved spots make special appearances in scenes throughout the recently released, for lack of a better genre, stoner comedy. It’s a comedy (and it really is funny, I think) depicting a community in support of the legalization of marijuana; a popular cause in Austin. I caught the film during the Austin Film Festival back in the fall. One of the things I liked most about the movie was that, for me, it really felt like Austin. The landmarks representing Austin in the film are good ones. So good, in fact, that I decided to dedicate this post to giving you the run-down of some of my favorite landmarks in the film. And so, here it goes, my favorite 10 Austin landmarks featured in Austin High.1. Alamo Drafthouse Cinema
The Alamo Drafthouse, commonly referred to as one or the other (‘Alamo’ or ‘Drafthouse’), is a staple in the Austin community for both locals and tourists alike. Founded in 1997, this movie theater is unlike any other. With several locations within the city of Austin and an expanding fleet beyond Austin, it’s no wonder this cinema has become so popular: it’s also a restaurant/bar. You don’t have to pay an arm and a leg for tickets–the movie tickets themselves are actually cheaper than most mainstream movie theater tickets. The food and drink menu changes from location to location. Filled with satisfying comfort food (including vegetarian options, seasonal specials, and dessert) and a wide selection of beer, wine, and cocktails, the Alamo is, as far as I am concerned, the only place worth seeing new releases. Even better? The Alamo also features movies aside from new releases. Local films, like Austin High, oftentimes make their debut at Alamo. The cinema also shows older films frequently–I recently saw Over The Top at the Alamo (seriously). They even do themed shows like cartoons on Saturday mornings complete with milk and cereal.

2. Rio Rita
For what I deem the best Bloody Mary in Austin, go to Rio Rita. This joint on East 6th street is a popular spot for a reason. The drinks are both caffeinated and alcoholic (take your pick!). The decor is lacks pretension and, for that, it is welcoming. You can order things like a soy chorizo with Brie wrap. The Wi-Fi is free and all in all, this place does a good job at being a place to eat, drink, hang out, and still get work done.

3. The Highball
The Highball is one of those places that’s a good place to go if you can’t decide on what exactly you want to do with your night. Live music, drinks, bowling, food, private karaoke rooms, and a ballroom make this venue what it is: popular.

4. Hippie Hollow Park
Hippie Hollow Park is the only clothing-optional public park in Texas. Swim, sun-bathe, or hike at your leisure here, dressed or undressed. I could go on, but, really, this sums it up. The rest you have to see for yourself.

5. Waterloo Park
Once the home of the now-expanded Fun Fun Fun Festival, Waterloo Park is a nice park located in the eastern part of Austin’s downtown. Only 10 acres of grassy land make this park small, but quaint. Oftentimes the home base for events in Austin, it’s a great spot for a quiet picnic just west of I-35.

6. Torchy’s Tacos
Everyone in Austin will tell you: you need to try Torchy’s Tacos at least once. And if you really like them, you’ll have no problem returning for more–there are 8 locations in the city of Austin. My favorite? Fried avocado.

7. Lady Bird Lake
Lady Bird Lake seems to be at the center of attention in the city of Austin. It’s the dammed up river that runs straight through the center of town, commonly referred to as a ‘lake’ (it’s not a lake). It is, however, beautiful. This is where you’ll go to see the famous Austin bats. You’ll be right next to these shores when you’re at Auditorium Shores, Zilker Park, Barton Springs, or a number of other Austin staples. Great for hiking, running, leisurely walking, kayaking, biking, and plenty more, Lady Bird Lake is truly a treasure in the middle of Austin.

8. The Victory Grill
The Victory Grill is a historic music venue in East Austin. Originally opened in 1945 as a restaurant and bar for African American soldiers returning home from war, the grill soon became known for live music as well as food and drink. In the 1950’s, most of the popular blues and jazz acts at the time played at the Victory Grill. Etta James, James Brown, Chuck Berry, Billie Holiday, Ike & Tina Turner, and Janis Joplin all graced the Victory stage.

9. Spider House
The Spider House patio bar & cafe is popular in Austin. Food, drinks, and live music make the Spider House a full house on any given day.

10. Beerland
Loud music, cheap beer, pool, liquor, arcade games, live music, and karaoke make this destination the attraction that is. A plus? It’s open 7 days a week, waiting for you.