Flights within Europe for $50

At one point, Europe had more than one hundred budget airlines. Not all of them made it through the turbulent few years, but those who remained (some fifty) are pretty solid. You know the spiel – you can book one-way tickets without penalty, there is no free food on board, usually no assigned seats, you are only allowed to carry on 1 bag and check 1 bag, otherwise you pay. That is after all, how they make their money. If your dates are flexible, the tickets are very cheap.

SkyEurope.com is one of those airlines. The biggest budget airline in Central Europe, headquartered in Slovakia, started a major promotion today to celebrate their 5-year anniversary. They fly to all major European destination and have new planes.

This week only, you can buy tickets anywhere they fly for FREE (you only pay taxes). I booked a round trip ticket from Prague to Rome for $50. Go snatch some!

Bordeaux Chateaux

When you’re planning your trip to visit the incredibly lovely Bordeaux region of France, you’ll simply have to cast off your urge to bring along your backpack and camp. Bordeaux must be done haut-style.

Whether you arrive in Bordeaux via the TGV from Paris or by plane into the Bordeaux airport (Merignac), head north out of the city, and you’re right in the Medoc region. I can give a strong recommendation to Chateau Le Lout, a wonderful nineteenth-century, Venetian-style chateau in Le Taillan-Medoc, that serves as a B&B.

We relied heavily upon the proprietor, Olivier Salmon, for our evening entertainment recommendations, and weren’t disappointed. The rooms were sizable (by European standards) and the bathrooms were well-appointed and large. You can take your Continental breakfast on the back terrace, in the morning sun. Don’t forget to bring your Speedo, to enjoy the pool.

Within minutes from the chateau, a magical road that twists past wineries took us to fine dining at Lion D’Or, in Arcins, to sample the wine and a local specialty: milk-fed veal. They open for dinner at 8, and be sure to call ahead for a reservation, as the place is small and the friendly and jovial patron, Monsieur Barbier, packs everyone in, to create a festive mood.

For fantastic outdoor dining, you can’t beat the cozy atmosphere of Restaurant Le St. Julien, further up the road in St. Julien-Beychevelle, which had a huge rotisserie-barbecue area in the middle of the terrace. This time, we sampled the fantastic local roast lamb. The tables were covered by tent-like canvas awnings, and the lighting was soft and romantic. Definitely a place to take in the night air and enjoy dinner for two. Or three, if you are really feeling French.

Disappointing Troy

A few years ago I was within an hour of visiting the famous town of Troy before being talked out of it by a disappointed tourist who had just come from there.

Troy is one of the most famous cities in history, its legendary siege made famous by Homer’s Iliad. It disappeared for many years, as besieged towns tended to do over time, but was eventually unearthed by a crazy German who bulldozed his way through the strata of artifacts instead of gingerly picking away with a toothbrush.

The end result, from a tourist perspective, is that there is really not too much to see. Robert Crew, writing for The Star, recently returned from Turkey (site of the Troy remains) and agrees. The village of Hisarlik (30 minutes from Canakkale, Turkey) sports a recreated Trojan Horse (apparently very hokey) and not much else.

The true joy, it appears, is looking across the landscape and imagining what had happened on that very spot so many years ago.

Oh, and in case you’re wondering, the Brad Pitt movie Troy was filmed in Mexico and Malta so if you venture this far, don’t expect things to look like they did in the film.

Remembering 9/11 – a Brief Personal Essay

It’s been five years almost literally to the minute that I write this that a jetliner piloted by maniacs slammed into the first tower at the World Trade Center. I was here that day and saw the second one hit live on TV from my office at ABC News. A chill galloped down my spine, and all questions whether what had happened to the first tower was an accident evaporated instantly. The rest of that day five years ago sped past in a blur of frenetic activity: making phone calls (or trying to), reporting, and attempting to get our heads around what had happened.

I told my wife to run up to the top of our building with our video camera to shoot the towers. She did, and while we lived in Midtown at the time, the smoke could be seen for miles and miles in every directon.

Like so many Americans I felt fear, hatred and sadness, all bubbling together in thick poison stew in my heart. The moment of clarity came just three nights later. I’d spent all day down at Ground Zero trying to get in to shoot pictures. I managed to get past the police line and shot some nice shots of the smoldering rubble at Building 7 (recently rebuilt…and quite lovely…I got to do a shot up on the top floor two weeks ago). Anyway, I was walking back with my camera and wandered through Washington Square Park. There, a group of maybe 25 people had assembled, and as the sun went down, they suddenly burst into song. The group was led by a heavy-set guy who was a classic New Yorker: heavy Brooklyn accent, moustache, heaving belly beneath a too-tight T-shirt that, I believe, though I may be subconsciously embellishing, said I Heart New York. Anyway, I wandered over to them and started singing along. Song after song we bellowed to the darkening sky.

Each tune had some connection to New York. We sang for an hour, ad at the end of each tune, someone would either call out a title or start singing the first notes. Billy Joel songs, Broadway tunes, and, at the crescendo of this most amazing evening, we sang New York, New York. The song could have come much earlier, but it was as if we all subconsciously knew that this was how we’d end it. And when the chorus came, tears flowed like crystal rain, arms draped around the shoulders of total strangers and scores of faces turned up to the smoke-smothered moonlight. Teeth glinted in the light and our voices rose over the park and the city. And that wonderful fat fellow conducted us, used his small, chubby hands to lift our awful, hoarse voices. And what was the saddest of moments, was also the happiest. Strangely, these two emotions did not wrestle for our emotions like the snakes on the staff of Asclepius; rather, they mingled together like smoke and fog, impossible to tell apart, impossible to separate. And that’s kind of how I’ve felt ever since about that day.

The tragedy of loss of life is unfathomable, but in a way the event helped reconfirm how lovely life is and how gloriously vibrant is this city. In some convoluted way, this event of boundless cruelty better connected me with the greater humanity that was always there, but was oddly out of sight. And for me, it brought into sharp relief how great the human race is, how our cities and societies are made and mended overtime by a billion minds and hands with the purpose of ensuring that people realize their dreams and live life to its fullest.

Despite the mix of emotions, there was no ambiguity in that raw moment in Washington Square Park. Life is wonderful and life goes on. And while there are, and there always will be tragedies, music and art and commerce and love will always trump the dark tendencies that lurk inside of us. Those tendencies are forever there, but they will never win.

Lost luggage. Really, Really Lost.

A few days ago, I blogged about my horrible experience at the lost baggage counter in Barcelona. Today, exactly a week later, I am already back home from a trip to Spain and France, still without that bag!

Although I managed to see Barcelona and drove up to the south of France, my luggage–it seems–saw a lot more of the world without me.

This is the sad story of poor me and my bag:

  • Monday – I arrive in Barcelona from Prague on Czech Airlines, direct flight mind you. My bag does not.
  • Tuesday – My bag arrives in Barcelona. Should be delivered to my hotel “asap”.
  • Wednesday – I am am enjoying the Costa Brava while someone at Iberia decides to send my bag back to Prague.
  • Thursday – I am driving up to France from Spain. Czech Air promises they will send the bag to me in Bordeaux.
  • Friday – I break down and buy new clothes and toiletries. Bag does not make it to Bordeaux.
  • Saturday – Marathon du Medoc day. My bag is apparently on its way to Bordeaux, yet somehow it gets rerouted to Madrid and then San Sebastien, Spain, of all places.
  • Sunday – I give up and drive to San Sebastien. The bag is not there and apparently has never been there.
  • Monday – I fly back home. Czech Airlines tell me they have no idea where my bag is.

According to USA Today, out of the 3,7 million bags that got lost by airlines last year, 420,000 are lost permanently. Umm, it is a little hard to imagine where almost half million bags end up. Apparently in some lost baggage center in Alabama. With the new “liquid” regulation, the number of checked bags has gone up and one would assume the number of lost bags would go up as well.

I love traveling, but the recent developments in the airline industry make me more and more convinced that trains might be the way to go.