Bordeaux Chateaux

by Iva Skoch on

When you’re planning your trip to visit the incredibly lovely Bordeaux region of France, you’ll simply have to cast off your urge to bring along your backpack and camp. Bordeaux must be done haut-style.

Whether you arrive in Bordeaux via the TGV from Paris or by plane into the Bordeaux airport (Merignac), head north out of the city, and you’re right in the Medoc region. I can give a strong recommendation to Chateau Le Lout, a wonderful nineteenth-century, Venetian-style chateau in Le Taillan-Medoc, that serves as a B&B.

We relied heavily upon the proprietor, Olivier Salmon, for our evening entertainment recommendations, and weren’t disappointed. The rooms were sizable (by European standards) and the bathrooms were well-appointed and large. You can take your Continental breakfast on the back terrace, in the morning sun. Don’t forget to bring your Speedo, to enjoy the pool.

Within minutes from the chateau, a magical road that twists past wineries took us to fine dining at Lion D’Or, in Arcins, to sample the wine and a local specialty: milk-fed veal. They open for dinner at 8, and be sure to call ahead for a reservation, as the place is small and the friendly and jovial patron, Monsieur Barbier, packs everyone in, to create a festive mood.

For fantastic outdoor dining, you can’t beat the cozy atmosphere of Restaurant Le St. Julien, further up the road in St. Julien-Beychevelle, which had a huge rotisserie-barbecue area in the middle of the terrace. This time, we sampled the fantastic local roast lamb. The tables were covered by tent-like canvas awnings, and the lighting was soft and romantic. Definitely a place to take in the night air and enjoy dinner for two. Or three, if you are really feeling French.

Soda Pop Heaven

by Neil Woodburn on

I’m a bit embarrassed to have learned about something very cool in my hometown of Los Angeles by reading The New York Times.

According to the experts on the east coast, there is a wonderful little shop/museum in the Highland Park suburb of Los Angeles that specializes in obscure soda pops and beer. Galco’s Soda Pop Stop stocks 500 soda flavors including 38 varieties of root beer alone.

Some of the flavors are simply funky, while others are old, established brands that are almost impossible to find anywhere these days.

The store’s website is loaded with a host of colorful names that are enticing; Jeff’s Orange Dream Egg Cream Soda, Goya Jamaican Style Ginger Beer, Journey Twisted Bean Vanilla Brew, Arizona Lite Chocolate Fudge Float, and even original flavors of such modern standbys as Dr. Pepper.

From what I understand, the store is beloved by soda pop adventurers and old people trying to reconnect with the halcyon flavors of their youth.

I Eat Cannibals

by Neil Woodburn on

Sleeping with Cannibals was simply a headline I couldn’t resist reading.

The Smithsonian Magazine always has wonderful articles and this one is no exception.

Adventurer Paul Raffaele journeyed deep into Indonesian New Guinea in search of the Korowai tribe who are reputed to be some of this planet’s last remaining cannibals. In what is almost always a cliché regarding such adventures, he journeys further up river than anyone before, where the locals have never seen a white person before.

The article is a rather interesting read that delves into the challenges of traveling through such remote terrain as well as the mysticism which surrounds the Korowai’s decision to cannibalize or not cannibalize.

Poor Raffaele never had the chance to witness such a human feast, but he didn’t wind up on the menu either. He was presented with plenty of evidence which suggests that the practice continues, however, and even learned which human parts were most tasty (the brain).

Grapes of Bordeaux

by Iva Skoch on

You can’t go to the Bordeaux region of France and not became a wine aficionado. I learned quite a bit about the biggest wine region in the world this week. Some of the world’s favorite reds (think Margaux) come from right here here.

First of all, as you can see from the picture, the grapes are very low, about 5 inches from the ground. I am told it is because the soil here is very sandy and light, thus it reflects sun and provides even more heat for the grapes. Also, at night, when temperatures drop dramatically, the soil retains heat and so the grapes can ripen even at night. Their skins are apparently very thick so getting all the heat you can get is the key.

Also, all Bordeaux wine are blends, usually Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Although, when I saw how many runners at the Marathon du Medoc (which I blogged about yesterday) urinated in the vineyards, it made me think that maybe it is not the Merlot that gives Bordeaux wines its specific aroma. The harvest starts in two weeks. So if you see a label that says “2006 blend”, think about that.

Red Corner: Moscow’s Most Extravagant Restaurant

by Neil Woodburn on

The Soviets were always gung-ho over building the very biggest of things.

Their predecessors, the Capitalist Russians, share the same passion.

Consider for a moment, Turandot. This Moscow restaurant, which opened earlier this year, spreads across 65,000 square feet, seats 500 people, and cost over $50 million to build.

If it weren’t serving food, it could double as a museum.

According to wine writer Jancis Robinson, over 100 artists toiled on the mammoth construction, marvelously recreating an 18th century aristocratic residence bathed in resplendent opulence and gilded gold.

The New York Times also wrote about this extravagance last May. Having not yet visited myself, I’ll quote briefly from just one of the Times’ many descriptive passages.

“A marble Venetian courtyard – with statues of Neptune and other ancient gods and live mandarin trees, and bookended by two Gianmaria Buccellati boutiques – opens onto the palace, which is crowned by a sky-blue dome and a 1.5-ton crystal chandelier.”

The food seems almost secondary to every article I’ve run across. But once diners get over the striking interior and finally settle down to eat, the reviews of the “imperial Asian” cuisine have been pretty decent, and very pricey.

I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to visit my next time in Moscow.