San Luis Obispo: Possible place to visit or move to

A friend and I were talking today about what we’re up to. She’s up to traveling to California during the end of April with her boyfriend to look for a place to live one day. They’re starting in San Diego and heading up the coast. They don’t know exactly where they want to live so I threw out San Luis Obispo as a possibility. I’ve never been there, but have heard great things. One of my oldest friends, who does lives there part time, loves the place. He’s always saying I should visit.

My friend who is currently seeking out her future asked me if there are nature related activities in the area. “Oh, I’m sure of it,” I said, then followed with, “I’ll check.” Now, I’ve checked.

San Luis Obispo does indeed have nature type things. It’s the beginning of the Big Sur coastline. The Parks and Recreation department looks extensive. Mountains for hiking are close by. Along with nature, there are history and the arts. The Mission San Luis Obispo de Toroso was founded in 1772. Hearst Castle is also near here. This weekend is the Music for Your Eyes Gala and Art Auction. These are just a few of the things to do that I found. I’d say San Luis Obispo is a fine contender for consideration. Definitely a place to visit. Possibly a place to settle in for awhile.

Any more thoughts of good places to live in California? I’ll let my friend know.

Read all of outdoor magazine Wend online and for free

If you are an outdoor aficionado, you may already be familiar with Wend. The outdoor magazine based out of Portland, Oregon fills its pages with stories from around the globe that peak the interest of not only outdoor enthusiasts, but anyone with a wanderlust. The latest issue covers a trip through Iceland, volunteering in Indonesia, trekking Afghanistan and surfing the Great Lakes; that’s what I call good reading material.

Being the eco-friendly souls that they are, the Wend crew finally put the magazine online, making all of the articles accessible via your computer. You can still buy the print version, but if you are out traveling — or just want to save on paper consumption — the new online version is just as satisfying. And it’s free.

Check out the virtual version of the latest issue here. And if you are feeling truly inspired, shoot them an email and pitch a story.

Getting High on Your Holiday

Sure, we’ve all thought about it and some of us do it often. Getting high on your holiday trip can be pretty fun, in fact. I mean really high, above 11,500 feet (3500 m). Not everything cool is on a beach at sea-level. Ruins in the Andes, trekking in the Himalayas and chasing back country powder are a few things you have to get high, to do. These trips are all “dream vacations,” so why risk a problem with altitude sickness?

High altitude is considered to be 1500 – 3500 m (4950 – 11,500 ft) while very high altitude covers 3500 to 5500 m (11,500-18,050 ft). Anything above 5500 m falls into the extreme altitude category. Altitude sickness is not related to physical fitness and can have some deadly consequences, if not recognized and treated promptly.

Accute Mountain Sickness generally includes symptoms of headache, worse at night or during straining, nausea/vomiting and dizziness. The symptoms are often described as a “bad hangover”.

Some conditions associated with more severe forms of altitude sickness or AMS (acute mountain sickness) include HACE (high altitude cerebral edema) and HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema). These conditions involve swelling and fluid accumulation in the respective tissues. Swelling of the brain, as seen in HACE, can present as marked stupor and confusion. HAPE, with fluid collecting in the person’s lungs, often starts as a cough followed by progressive shortness of breath.

As with most things, prevention is better than treatment. Prevention of AMS and it’s associated conditions centers around a slow, gradual ascent to altitude. This gives the body a chance to acclimatize and adjust to the physiologic demands of life at the new altitude, even if only for a few hours or days. This can be a problem for people traveling by car or plane to an area of high altitude, simply because they ascend very rapidly.

Symptoms of AMS can begins quickly, in as little as 2-3 hours after arrival to altitude, which means you can get off your plane and begin to feel bad, even before you arrive at your hotel! In an ideal world, all travelers going to higher altitude will be able to have a slow and controlled ascent, gaining no more than 600-900 m (1,980 to 2,970 ft) per day. However, this is not always practical. Anytime there is suspicion of an altitude related illness, stop ascending, immediately. If symptoms do not improve, consider a descent to lower altitude, for a few days of further acclimatization. Some expedition physicians also believe that most all medial problems, at high altitude, are to be considered AMS until proven otherwise.

There are a few medications used to combat AMS and a few good arguments, both for and against their use. The medicine that is most commonly used is called Acetazolamide. This medicine causes an acidosis, designed to combat the alkalosis caused by hyperventilation at high altitudes. Designed to be taken a few days prior to ascent, during the time at altitude and for a few days after descent, Acetazolamide is both a prophylactic medicine as well as a treatment. There is some controversy over the ideal dose to be used and I consider this article a good source of information, along with an article that favors a higher dose.

Against Acetazolamide Use:

Everything in life is a trade off and medicine is a perfect example of this. Side effects of Acetazolamide include a metallic taste, especially with soda, and frequent urination. Acetazolamide is a sulfa-based drug and allergic reactions can occur. Some studies have show than judicious exercise, on the first few days of arrival to altitude, can be effective in AMS prevention and that only 25% of travelers to resort communities at 8,000 and 12,000 feet have altitude illnesses.

For Acetazolamide Use:

A dream vacation can be ruined by many things and with 25% of travelers in an high altitude zone experiencing AMS symptoms, why risk spending your trip with a headache, or worse. Most vacation trips to high altitude zones last 7-10 days and Acetazolamide is a cheap and very effective medication for control and prevention of AMS.

Some other treatments for AMS, HACE and HAPE include dexamethasone and inhaled asthma medications like salmeterol. For the hard-core out there, Gamow bags can be used, especially on mountaineering expeditions. Ginko Biloba is also currently showing promise in AMS treatment/prevention.

As with most travel-related illnesses, prior proper preparation prevents poor performance. Understanding altitude illness and being aware of it’s symptoms can help with early recognition and treatment, thus preventing a ruined trip and health risk. To learn more about AMS check out these sites:

The International Society for Mountain Medicine

The High Altitude Medicine Guide

CDC Traveler’s Health Yellow Book: Altitude Illness

How to hike the Inca trail

Every time I took a step, my wet sneakers made the same sound as when I’m slurping spaghetti. I just crossed Dead Woman’s Pass (which won’t seem as derogatory once you hear the full backstory) at 13,700 feet and all I wanted was to sit down, get out of my soaking clothes, and take a hot shower. But I couldn’t, because I was on a four day trek on the Inca trail to the lost city of Machu Picchu.

Besides the rain (the rainy season is December to February), you’ll have to deal with the cold (Under Armour helps), the sun (bring lots of sunscreen, trust me), the snow (one porter died a couple years ago at Dead Woman’s Pass), the endless steps (both up and down), the wake-up times (4 am on the last day to get to Machu Picchu by sun-rise), and the traffic (thousands of tourists crowd the trail during the popular season, June to August).

Oh, and there’s also the $300 or so you’ll spend on mandatory porters and a guide.

Even with these hassles and expenses, I guarantee you won’t regret hiking the Inca trail. In fact, it’s a classic favorite on any traveler’s life-list. These days, though, many guides like Lonely Planet will try to convince you to take an alternative hike, citing the crowds on the trail and a rushed itinerary.

But it’s not just any old trail. Taking an alternative route will mean missing out on seeing the 10+ amazing ruins scattered throughout the 33-kilometer trail. And you can avoid most of the crowds by going outside of June to August, like I did. If you can afford it, hiring a private tour will help you feel less claustrophobic, since you can just zip right past other groups-or slow down and enjoy the ruins. Having said that, the standard 3-night / 4-day itinerary really gives you plenty of time to soak it all in.
What to expect


You’ll be hiking on a 500-year-old+ trail that’s wide enough for foot traffic in both directions. Granted, going down the steps can be treacherous sometimes, especially after it rains when the trail can turn into just another mountain stream. The first day is very relaxing as the terrain is level. The second day is grueling, as you’ll climb two passes, starting from inside a cloud forest up to snowy peaks; expect to hike more than ten miles. The third day is again fairly easy-I got to our camping site by lunchtime. And the fourth day, you’ll wake up when it’s still night and hike to the Sun Gate, where you’ll see the sun rise over Machu Picchu. Simply spectacular.

Picking a tour

You can’t hike the Inca trail by yourself. Government regulations require you to pick a tour company, which will supply a guide, the tent, plenty of porters, and all the food you can eat. It’s a very good deal if you think about it, but expect to pay around $300 for a good tour. I’ve heard of one company that does it for $175, but you get what you paid for, which is a giant group of 25 hikers and little personal attention (and they treat the porters poorly). Recommended:

  • Llama Path (telephone: 50-0822)- I went with Llama Path, which was an amazing company that’s quite affordable. Ask for Dimas to be your guide-he knows everything about Peru and the Incas, and he comes with good stories.
  • Peru Treks (50-5863)-Locally owned
  • Aventours (22-4050)-Expensive, but good quality equipment and service
  • Andean Trek (617-924-1974)-Run by an American, with great guides

Not recommended:

  • SAS (25-5205)-Their group camped next to ours. They had something like 20 hikers with only a few more porters than in our group of 7. This is the most popular agency, but don’t fall for it!

How to get there

Fly or bus in to Cusco. Make sure you stay in Cusco for at least two or three days to get acclimated. Or get acclimated in neighboring Arequipa, which is what I recommend. Your tour company will arrange all transportation to and from Cusco.

See my gallery of the Inca trail and Machu Picchu here. I have galleries of Lake Titicaca, Lime and the Peruvian coast, the Sacred Valley, and canyon country up too.

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Belize’s coral reef is threatened

Belize has been on my “places to dive” list for years. At the same time, I get anxious every time I think about diving in Belize. Years ago, I knew somebody who died while diving the Blue Hole, the infamous collapsed limestone cave more than 400 feet deep. She was an experiences diver, but panicked. Ever since then, the Blue Hole has sounded a little scary to me.

After reading this USA Today article, it sounds like I should get over myself and finally go there soon because Belize’s coral reef is vanishing quickly. A potent mix of coastal development, tourism, overfishing, pollution and climate change has apparently damaged an estimated 40% of the Belize reef system, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Western Hemisphere’s largest barrier reef, that attracts more than a third of Belize’s 850,000 annual visitors. Ouch.