Remembering 9/11 – a Brief Personal Essay

It’s been five years almost literally to the minute that I write this that a jetliner piloted by maniacs slammed into the first tower at the World Trade Center. I was here that day and saw the second one hit live on TV from my office at ABC News. A chill galloped down my spine, and all questions whether what had happened to the first tower was an accident evaporated instantly. The rest of that day five years ago sped past in a blur of frenetic activity: making phone calls (or trying to), reporting, and attempting to get our heads around what had happened.

I told my wife to run up to the top of our building with our video camera to shoot the towers. She did, and while we lived in Midtown at the time, the smoke could be seen for miles and miles in every directon.

Like so many Americans I felt fear, hatred and sadness, all bubbling together in thick poison stew in my heart. The moment of clarity came just three nights later. I’d spent all day down at Ground Zero trying to get in to shoot pictures. I managed to get past the police line and shot some nice shots of the smoldering rubble at Building 7 (recently rebuilt…and quite lovely…I got to do a shot up on the top floor two weeks ago). Anyway, I was walking back with my camera and wandered through Washington Square Park. There, a group of maybe 25 people had assembled, and as the sun went down, they suddenly burst into song. The group was led by a heavy-set guy who was a classic New Yorker: heavy Brooklyn accent, moustache, heaving belly beneath a too-tight T-shirt that, I believe, though I may be subconsciously embellishing, said I Heart New York. Anyway, I wandered over to them and started singing along. Song after song we bellowed to the darkening sky.

Each tune had some connection to New York. We sang for an hour, ad at the end of each tune, someone would either call out a title or start singing the first notes. Billy Joel songs, Broadway tunes, and, at the crescendo of this most amazing evening, we sang New York, New York. The song could have come much earlier, but it was as if we all subconsciously knew that this was how we’d end it. And when the chorus came, tears flowed like crystal rain, arms draped around the shoulders of total strangers and scores of faces turned up to the smoke-smothered moonlight. Teeth glinted in the light and our voices rose over the park and the city. And that wonderful fat fellow conducted us, used his small, chubby hands to lift our awful, hoarse voices. And what was the saddest of moments, was also the happiest. Strangely, these two emotions did not wrestle for our emotions like the snakes on the staff of Asclepius; rather, they mingled together like smoke and fog, impossible to tell apart, impossible to separate. And that’s kind of how I’ve felt ever since about that day.

The tragedy of loss of life is unfathomable, but in a way the event helped reconfirm how lovely life is and how gloriously vibrant is this city. In some convoluted way, this event of boundless cruelty better connected me with the greater humanity that was always there, but was oddly out of sight. And for me, it brought into sharp relief how great the human race is, how our cities and societies are made and mended overtime by a billion minds and hands with the purpose of ensuring that people realize their dreams and live life to its fullest.

Despite the mix of emotions, there was no ambiguity in that raw moment in Washington Square Park. Life is wonderful and life goes on. And while there are, and there always will be tragedies, music and art and commerce and love will always trump the dark tendencies that lurk inside of us. Those tendencies are forever there, but they will never win.

Guided WTC Tours

Here we are on the cusp of the fifth anniversary of 9/11/2001, so I figured I’d post something relevant to that. While you can easily go down to the Ground Zero site (though not tonight, the “Decider” is speaking) and walk around, the view of the hole is actually quite dismal. So most tourists just kind of stand around outside the fence and snap photos of each other, well, standing around.

But there is more to the site if you put in some effort. In fact, visitors to the World Trade Center site can now get a guided tour, which comes with a first-hand account of the attack. All this thanks to a program being run by the Tribute World Center. The center opened to the public on September 6th, and guides are now ushering folks from around the world, sharing personal stories from that day. Again, I wouldn’t advocate gong down there tonight ,but on your next visit to the Big Apple, this might be a nice way to lean about the horrible tragedy of five years ago.

Grapes of Bordeaux

You can’t go to the Bordeaux region of France and not became a wine aficionado. I learned quite a bit about the biggest wine region in the world this week. Some of the world’s favorite reds (think Margaux) come from right here here.

First of all, as you can see from the picture, the grapes are very low, about 5 inches from the ground. I am told it is because the soil here is very sandy and light, thus it reflects sun and provides even more heat for the grapes. Also, at night, when temperatures drop dramatically, the soil retains heat and so the grapes can ripen even at night. Their skins are apparently very thick so getting all the heat you can get is the key.

Also, all Bordeaux wine are blends, usually Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Although, when I saw how many runners at the Marathon du Medoc (which I blogged about yesterday) urinated in the vineyards, it made me think that maybe it is not the Merlot that gives Bordeaux wines its specific aroma. The harvest starts in two weeks. So if you see a label that says “2006 blend”, think about that.

The Slowest Marathon in the World

Combining running with wine tasting? Leave it to the French to invent a marathon that actually sounds like fun. And reporting from Medoc, France over a glass of magnificent red wine, I can confirm that it is.

The annual Marathon du Medoc in the Bordeaux region of France ended just a few hours ago in scorching heat of some 100F. Although the fastest man ran the 42-kilometer (26-mile) track in 2 hours and 28 minutes, most other people did not run this for the adrenaline as much as the “vino”. Over 8000 people from all over the world came here to race through picturesque French villages dressed up in more or less creative costumes. I must say that there were disturbingly many men in drag or dressed up as babies, pacifier, diapers and everything. Pirates of the Caribbean and sailors of all kinds were a huge hit this year.

The marathon route goes through some of the best chateaux of this region and provide runners as well as spectators the opportunity to try Medoc’s wine. Hence the slowest marathon in the world title.

If you haven’t already, put this on your list of things to do before you die (or become lame). It is absolutely worth it.

GADLING’S TAKE FIVE: Week of September 3

Time for our weekly fav’s. Want to hear em’, here they go:

5. Passport Rules Changing:

This one was just posted today, but let’s just go over it once more – know the passport rules before getting to the airport. There are some small changes like needing a passport to get into Canada and others. With the changing times there are changing passport rules. Don’t be fooled my friends.

4. Salmon Festival:
Having just discovered all the amazing wonders found in a nice succulent piece of salmon over the last two years I was reeled into this Salmon Fest piece. If you’re heading northwest this year place this on your itinerary, radar or whatever. The event takes places September 28-October 1. Be sure to send some my way.

3. Museum Day:
Free admission into museums is blog worthy. So what if it only costs you $6-$10 dollars for entrance in the first place. A savvy traveler knows the wonders on saving an extra buck or two. On September 30 save some of that dinero when some 500 museums across America will waive admission fees.

2. Sagrada Familia: Construction Update:
These are the kinds of updates you may never find in your nice little guidebooks. Thanks to Iva and her watchful eye we discover that the never ending construction on Spain’s Sagrada Familia is still going on. Has that kept it from being one of Spain’s top visited attractions? Of course not, but the updates are always welcome!

1. Lifelist: Inca Trail:

Looks like Erik is reviving the Lifelist feature and I’m more than glad. To kick it off he goes into the How, When, Where, What and Why’s of visiting the Inca Trail and why (if it already isn’t) you might want to jot it onto your own Lifelist.