The Polish Spa Town That Time Forgot

by David Farley on
Set in the pine-laden Beskid Sadecki mountains in southern Poland and not far from the Slovakian border, Krynica attracts hordes of tourists. The town’s long promenade is the center of action: flanked by the usual 19th-century Central European spa town Art Deco and neo-classical architecture, the promenade is frequented by water-sipping strollers, purple-haired geriatrics who like to pass out on park benches, and mustached men trying to convince passersby that they really want a photo-op with a sad-looking monkey on a chain or a depressed miniature horse. There are no backpackers or even flashpackers or jetsetters here.

Nearly all of the hordes of tourists in Krynica come to parade their diseases down the promenade, sipping the apparently healing mineral water that bubbles up from springs, and awaiting their next spa treatment. The reason? This town of 11,000 people is one of Poland’s most popular heath resorts. The Polish spa town that time forgot.


How many Poles does it take to make a spa town flourish? In the case of Krynica, the answer is just one. When Jozef Dietl, the father of Polish balneology (the science of the medical application of baths) declared in 1856 that the town’s natural mineral springs were curative, Krynica became the center of sanative relief for this Central European country. It’s not a place for the young, or even the young at heart. The nightlife scene, for example, is mostly limited to several dancehalls, where visitors party like it’s 1949.
I didn’t have a disease, but I did have an assignment from a magazine editor who was working on a European spa package article. When she found out I was going to be in Poland for another assignment, she came to me with orders: “Just go to Krynica and spend the day getting spa treatments.” I’ve never been into spa travel. I usually go somewhere for a singular reason: to eat (and then write about it) or just because I’m curious about the place, but I never gravitate toward this kind of pampering.

But here I was, sitting on a bench reading a brochure about what was in store for me. Krynica-Zdroj, as it’s officially called, is historically known for treating illnesses of the stomach, diabetes, menstrual cycle disturbances, and, according to the brochure, “states after conservative operations of genital organ.” As I watched geriatric spa goers limp by on the promenade, I feared the worst.

Taking my editor’s orders, I marched into the spa at the ’70s theme park Panorama Hotel and steeled myself. I scanned the menu of treatments, many of which seemed incomprehensible and some almost seemed like a threat. Measurement of Pressure? The President’s Armchair? The Scottish Whip? I didn’t want to ask. Instead, I blindly pointed to a small handful of treatments on the list.

A frumpy women in her early 60s whisked me into a white-tiled room and fired a slew of Polish orders at me. I only understood her hand gestures: disrobe. When I got down to my boxers, she put up the palm of her hand to halt right there and then waved me to stand against the wall. Ten seconds later, this granny was blasting two high-pressured water streams at me. I felt less like I was getting treated for a disease and more like I was a victim of the Sluzba Bezpieczenstwa, the communist-era secret police. After a few more minutes of punishing high-pressure water, I was escorted into a massage room. The strapping, blond Zoltan explained he was going to give me a “sport massage,” which in Polish massage speak meant he’d be punishing my back and shoulders for 45 minutes. As Zoltan pounded and punched away, grunting and breathing heavy, his sweat dropping on me, I wondered who was getting more out of this: me or him. When he was done abusing my back, he let me go to a hot whirlpool so I could soak off the pain that was just inflicted on me by the water-firing granny and Zoltan. Eventually, my spa day ended with the President’s Armchair: a leather chair with what felt like a bowling ball inside moving up and down my back, as speakers in the headrest blasted Polish rock.


Celebrating the end of my day’s worth of torture, I ate surprisingly artery hardening, yet delicious pork-stuffed potato pancakes and cheese-filled pierogis.

I hopped back on the bus to Krakow early the next morning hoping that I never come back to Krynica. Or, rather, that I never have a real reason to come back.

Pack like a pro with new travel apps

by Chris Owen on

There are a bunch of packing lists out there which can be helpful for those who do not travel all that much or serve as a checklist for those that do. But those “lists” require having a computer handy or carrying around a paper list like in the olden days before we all went green and stopped printing things. Here are some new apps that can help us pack like a pro.

Saving Grace Travel Packing Aid – Recently released by Grace Hotels, this app is a packing checklist and reminder tool all in one. Designed to cut the stress out of packing for any vacation, Saving Grace has customized lists for different trip types and activities that can be individually personalized. I like this one because it’s great to have when time runs short right before travel and things have got to be done. The Cost: $0
International Style App – Have your packing lists ready but not sure which outfits to choose from your wardrobe? FashionFreax app will assist you in your styling woes by supplying you with posts of stylish outfits from around the world. This is great for fashionista’s and cross-dressers. Good ‘ol boys from the land of “whatever I have on will be fine” or minimalist packers would never use it. I plan on gifting it to my wife before our next cruise when she says “Help me pack.” Like the whole idea of this? See (loosely) related video Cost:$0

Luggage Tracking App – Avoid accidentally leaving your belongings in the cab or at the airport with the All My Baggage App. With this app, users can quickly and easily manage and check their list of luggage and carry-ons. This one is in lieu of tying a string around your finger or sticking a post-it on your forehead after checking luggage to remember how many bags you have. Supplemental idea: Use that smart phone to take a photo of your luggage all lined up at home before you leave. Later, match photo to bags in hand, compare, note differences. Cost: $0

Flickr photo by twicepix

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Travel + Leisure best in the world announced

by Chris Owen on

Results of the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards 2011 Readers’ Survey were announced this week, revealing the world’s top hotels, airlines, cruise lines, islands and more.

“It’s clear that remote and exotic destinations-places that convey a sense of authenticity and adventure-are ruling the day once again in Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best Awards,” said Nancy Novogrod , editor in chief of Travel + Leisure.

Let’s take a look at the best of the best

World’s Best City- Bangkok

Worlds Best Hotel- Singita Grumeti Reserves (Saskwa Lodge, Sabora Tented Camp, and Faru Faru Lodge), Tanzania


World’s Best Island- Santorini Greece

Worlds Best Large-Ship Cruise Line- Crystal Cruises


Worlds Best Small-Ship Cruise Line- Seabourn

World’s Best River Cruise Line- Tauck


World’s Best International Airline- Singapore Airlines


World’s Best Domestic Airline- Virgin America

World’s Best Tour- Micato Safari’s


World’s Best Car Rental Agency- Zipcar

World’s Best Destination Spa- Rancho La Puerta Fitness Resort & Spa Tecate, Mexico


World’s Best Hotel Spa- Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa New Zealand

See all the winners at Travel + Leisure.

This year a digital edition for the iPad will be available for $1.99 on iTunes beginning July 11. This special iPad edition will include dozens of trip ideas, with itineraries created by T+L editors and insider information on World’s Best Award-winning destinations such as New York, Florence, Bali, the Great Barrier Reef, and beyond. Users can tap in to TravelandLeisure.com destination guides for the top cities and islands right from the digital version, with advice on where to stay, what to do, and how to create your own perfect trip. Plus, there are direct links to sites for the hotels, cruise lines, outfitters, and destinations for easy booking and users can share trip ideas via Facebook, Twitter, and email.

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Exploring the world’s tallest structure – the Burj Khalifa

by Justin Delaney on

The tallest building in the world does not appear made for this earth. By day it looks photoshopped into its downtown Dubai surroundings, and by night, the hulking spire looks like a rocket bound for the furthest reaches of our galaxy. And like a giant middle finger to its predecessors in the tallest building club, the structure is a testament to the audacity of Dubai – an idea that, what they build is what they are, and they are going to try and build the best.

While the world economic markets receded, Dubai kept building the beast called Khalifa. At a cost of $1.5 billion and a height of 2,717 feet, it humbles the surrounding skyscrapers in downtown Dubai. It possesses at least fifteen world records. It has the highest restaurant, the most floors, and is also the tallest structure ever built. The Middle East has not been home to the world’s tallest structure since 700 years ago, when the Great Pyramid of Giza was eclipsed by Lincoln Cathedral in England.

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While said to be inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s plans to build a mythical mile-high tower called “The Illinois” in the fifties, the Burj Khalifa is very real, and very original. The foundation for the building is based on the petals of the Hymenocallis flower, and it took 10,000 people from virtually every country in the world to complete the construction project. Named after the president of the United Arab Emirates, Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the engineering marvel took over 5 years to build, opening in 2010.

The Burj Khalifa is a mixed use tower with offices, residences, the Armani Hotel, and a restaurant called At.mosphere.

At the Top
The official visitor attraction for the Burj Khalifa is called “At the Top” and begins in Dubai Mall, next to the tower. The experience leads visitors through various multimedia presentations that trace the building of Khalifa. A travelator also cruises through a history of Dubai presentation in much appreciated air conditioning. After passing through some general Burj propaganda that includes the superimposing of the Burj Khalifa in a variety of cities, such as New York, one finally arrives at the elevators that ascend to the observation deck.

The observation deck is on the 124th floor, and reaching it by elevator takes roughly one minute. At a rate of 59 feet per second, it is the fastest elevator in the world. From the 124th floor the view reaches for miles and miles. All of Dubai looks like some sort of Lego set made by giants, unfinished and reaching for open space. The streets head in no particular direction and other skyscrapers appear tame and arbitrary.

A 360 degree panorama is provided from the observation deck, providing epic views of the city, sea, and desert. On clear days, one can glimpse man-made islands floating in the Arabian gulf. If, by chance, a visitor finds himself aching to buy some gold at this height, thankfully an ATM that distributes gold bars is available. File that under Only in Dubai.

The cost of admission varies. Since this is Dubai, there is an expensive option in addition to regular admission. The “immediate entry” choice costs four times regular admission, but one will be able to skip the line. This option is 400 AED ($108), and regular admission is 100 AED ($27). If time is greater than money, then the “immediate entry” preference is for you. Hours of operation are 10:00am to 12:00am daily. Booking in advance on the Burj Khalifa website is extremely wise.

The Armani Hotel
The Armani Hotel offers hotel rooms and residences in the Burj Khalifa. The first hotel named after fashion magnate Giorgio Armani minimizes all unnecessary aspects of hotel operations, delivering a sleek experience from end to end. The check in desk has been abolished, instead light conversation guides the process along. The desk in a “Classic” guestroom is a cube that one must slowly unfold, opening up an expanse in which to write love letters to minimalist designers. While Giorgio may or may not be a fan of desks, the point is minimalization, and it works wonderfully.

The colors are neutral, the lines are clean, and everything feels easy. This easiness translates to a feeling of being at home – even in bustling downtown Dubai with the pretension of a designer hotel in the world’s tallest building. To cut through that thick ostentation and provide comfort first is a noteworthy accomplishment. (Also of note, free pencil sharpeners and erasers, festooned with “Armani Hotel Dubai,” are there for those that open the guestroom desk.)

The beds in a hotel named for a fashion designer known for his legendary hand in selecting fabrics better be exceptional. And they are. They may be the most comfortable hotel beds in Dubai, perhaps Asia even. Surely, many morning meetings are missed due to the excessive coziness provided by the floppy soft comforter and cushiony mattress. Long after checking out, two memories linger in the mind of the traveler – the bed and the view. The view is exceptional, especially on the fountain-side. It is definitely worth splurging for a fountain-side room and watching the nightly Dubai Fountain show erupt beneath.

Pricing for rooms starts at around $450 (after taxes) if booked through an aggregator site like Kayak. The top-end Dubai Suite costs thousands more. The hotel boasts 5 stars, and has an Armani branded on premise spa as well as dining.

At.mosphere
The tallest restaurant in the world is located on the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa. This den of gastronomical excellence known as At.mosphere is helmed by Chef Dwayne Cheer. Due to safety issues with cooking at such a height, no gas can be used in the kitchen. Instead, a binchōtan charcoal oven is used. The oven is utilized expertly in preparing amazing dishes such as pan fried fois gras with espresso reduction and amaretto foam as well as seared diver scallops with cauliflower puree and grapefruit grenobloise. At.mosphere was profiled last week here at Gadling.

The Dubai Fountain
The brilliant designers behind the Bellagio fountain in Las Vegas lent their extraordinary talents to a fountain complex directly beneath the Burj Khalifa’s menacing spire. Considered the largest dancing fountain display in the world, the Dubai Fountain covers a distance of 900 feet and shoots water up to 500 feet in the sky. Nightly shows occur every 30 minutes from 6:00pm to 10:00pm on weekdays and until 11:00pm on weekends. The accompanying light show is so bright it can be seen from space. The elaborate fountain cost over $200 million to build.

All photography by Justin Delaney

Support for this program was partially provided by DTCM, with no limits on editorial or photographic content.

Yellowstone to host “summer camp for grown-ups” in September

by Kraig Becker on
Autumn is always a special time in Yellowstone National Park as the trees begin to display their brilliant fall colors before they shed their leaves altogether. The cooler temperatures put the wildlife on the move once again and the crisp air makes it a perfect time to explore the mountain trails. It doesn’t hurt that the crowds drop off dramatically as well, providing a true sense of solitude throughout the park.

In September, the Yellowstone Association Institute will host one of their more popular events, the Roosevelt Rendezvous, which is a part of their Lodging and Learning programs. These special programs allow visitors to spend their days touring Yellowstone with an experienced guide, who often provide access to lesser known, off the beaten path, areas. Those guides also share unique perspectives and insights into the natural history and ecosystem of the park that the average visitor wouldn’t get on their own.

The Roosevelt Rendezvous is affectionately seen as “summer camp for adults,” offering a dash of adventure during the day, mixed with great food and lodging at night. The four day program includes wildlife viewing and visits to Yellowstone’s famous thermal and geological features, led by the YAI’s trained naturalist guides. Day hikes of varying levels of difficulty allow travelers to get an up close and personal look at the park’s natural wonders, while mini-workshops in photography will help them capture the perfect picture along the way.

At the end of the day, visitors will return to the Roosevelt Lodge, where they’ll have an opportunity to share their adventures with the other travelers over a fine meal. The Roosevelt is one of the most popular lodges in any of the national parks, and it is typically closed in September, but it will remains open for the exclusive use of YAI during this program. Located near the Lamar Valley region, the Roosevelt is in close proximity to one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife in all of North America.

Reservations for the Roosevelt Rendezvous are available on September 9th, 13th, and 17th for $729 double occupancy. That price includes all accommodations, in-park transportation, meals, guides, and daily activities.