Fort San Cristóbal – Puerto Rico’s historic and beautiful landmark

by Annie Scott on


Fort San Cristóbal, as I mentioned in my article “Old San Juan – Beautiful Views and What to Do,” is a must-see on any trip to Old San Juan.

Even if you think history is kind of a yawner, the views will astound you — just the color of the stone is visually luscious enough to charm you. And since we’re on the topic, here’s a quick history lesson for you. I’ll try to make it fun.

Christopher Columbus was the first documented European to set foot in Puerto Rico (originally called “San Juan Bautista”) in 1493. It was his 2nd voyage to the new world, and one of the first Europeans vs. Native Americans throwdowns reportedly occurred when two boys were kidnapped and castrated. Then, in 1508, Spaniard Juan Ponce de León (who still has a prominent San Juan street named after him) showed up and founded a small settlement called Caparra (now ruins). As Puerto Rico was now part of “New Spain,” the Spanish eventually set up a fort to protect the island: The Castillo de San Cristóbal, or, Fort San Cristóbal, completed in 1783 (following numerous attacks by the English and the Dutch).

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Images by Tony J. Riley.

Originally, the fort wrapped around the entirety of San Juan and the only entrance to the city was through its well-guarded gates. It was The Great Wall of Not-China, if you will (come on, it’s a callback to Columbus … okay, the joke’s not very good. But I’m still gonna keep it there.). In 1897, they dynamited the walls to allow San Juan to expand (oops).

Then, on May 10, 1898, Castillo San Cristóbal fired cannons at the US Navy, thus entering the Spanish-American War. Six months later, the Spanish-American War ended, and Puerto Rico became and American territory under the Treaty of Paris.

In 1942, when World War II was in swing, the U.S. beefed up the fort with concrete pillboxes and an underground bunker control center. The fort remained an active military base until 1961, when it was bequeathed to the U.S. National Park Service for preservation and museum-ification.

Fort San Cristóbal is now suitable for tourist gawking and historical reenactments by The Fixed Regiment of Puerto Rico (really!). Click through the gallery for a look at the beautiful fort, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is often billed as “the most impressive structure in the new world” (by decree in 1949).

Take dad to a national park this weekend for free!

by Kraig Becker on

Just in time for the Father’s Day weekend, the National Park Service has announced that all entry fees will be waived for both Saturday and Sunday, June 20th and 21st. This means that more than 100 parks that traditionally charge for entry will be fee free this weekend.

In addition, a number of NPS partners that provide concessions, and other services, within the parks have announced special deals as well. For instance, those visiting Badlands National Park in South Dakota or Big Bend in Texas this weekend will receive a free, eco-friendly shopping bag that can be reused on your weekly trip to the grocery store. Meanwhile, travelers going to Glacier National Park can take advantage of a “buy-one-get-one-free” deal on commemorative t-shirts.

Already have plans for the weekend, and they involve relaxing at home instead? Never fear, there are still two more fee free wekends yet to come this summer, and most of the special deals from the concessioners will be available then too. The NPS has designated July 18-19 and August 15-16 as the other fee free days.

So, if you’re looking save a little money on your vacation this summer, perhaps you can plan to visit one of the many spectacular national parks around the country on one of these weekends. There is a nataional park or monument in 49 of the 50 states (Sorry Delaware!) and it has just gotten a little easier to pay them a visit. Head over to NPS.gov to find one near you.
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Adirondack escape updated, ready for guests

by Tom Johansmeyer on

When summer arrives, New Yorkers tend to turn to the Hamptons or the Jersey shore – depending on tax bracket. Many forget that the Adirondacks are only a few hours away. When reminded of this, the usual response involves “family destination” … and maybe a sneer. It also involves a mistake. While this corner of “upstate” remains family-friendly, there are plenty of upscale accommodations and experiences, without the traffic and travel headaches that New Yorkers find to the east and south.

The Sagamore Hotel is in the midst of a $20 million renovation, a rarity in today’s constrained market. But, the benefits of this investment are evident upon arrival. Much of the property has been redesigned rebuilt to reinforce the luxury experience. The on-property spa has 13 treatment rooms, obviating the need to wait, and the indoor pool makes it possible to take a dip even in the meanest of northern New York winters.

While the regular guestrooms are perfectly serviceable, drop the extra cash, if possible, to upgrade to a suite. Spacious doesn’t begin to describe … the bathroom. The elbow room available in the living room and bedroom is even more profound. Even for an intimate getaway, you don’t want to be crammed together – that’s a choice you’d prefer to make on your own! The bed is the star of the guestroom experience. Again, the king-sized scale makes close quarters a choice rather than a necessity, and the mattress is soft without swallowing you. In fact, it’s probably the best “compromise” bed available. Both my wife and I were happy, and I prefer to sleep on a board, while she feels that beds should be comfortable.

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As you wander The Sagamore Hotel, you get the feeling that something is somehow different. But, it’s hard to put your finger on it. The menu is carefully crafted, and the guestrooms are large and inviting. The lobby is spacious with natural pockets for larger groups to sit and have a sense of being separated from others. While this is all advantageous, it’s similar to what you’d find in any ex-urban resort. The Sagamore succeeds, however, in making it all hang together. It just fits. The mystery behind this connectedness can be traced to the general manager.

Tom Guay, who runs the Sagamore, was previously the property’s executive chef. It’s a strange route to GM – which I was unafraid to tell him. Usually, the top dog comes out of the sales department. Chefs are crazy people that you hide from the guests for most of the day, only occasionally letting them appear tableside for brief periods of time. Then, they return to the familiar insanity of a busy kitchen. Guay did get a chuckle out of my reaction (and handled it well). Apparently, the number of chefs rising to the top is increasing, and he credits the ability to multitask under hectic conditions as the driver. The attention to detail for which successful chefs are famous, I realized, is what brings the Sagamore together.

The sense of cohesion extends beyond the core property to the “lodges,” which physically constitute a property-within-a-property at the Sagamore. This part of the resort is more economical, ensuring that the traditional Adirondack constituency – families on a budget – can continue to enjoy the quiet natural surroundings. The large guestrooms in this corner of the Sagamore come with living rooms that have pullout beds in the couches and in-suite kitchenettes.

Jeopardizing the continuity of the Sagamore is the fact that there is still plenty of construction across the property: the $20 million is still being spent. The outdoor pools are being built, and guestrooms are in their final stages. A new rooftop deck is underway. While some guests may find these efforts to be a bit of an eyesore, consider the works in progress to be similar to the last multi-course meal you ate. Did the entrée suck because it was being cooked while you ate your soup? Of course not. The ongoing construction only impedes the guest experience if you choose to let it. I sat outside both nights I was on property and worked (wireless internet access is available in the rooms and in outside seating areas) and had no problems at all.

If you’re looking for a quick dash out from New York City or Boston, the Sagamore is a great alternative. It’s about the same distance from both cities, and you won’t have to deal with the crowds that plague the Hamptons and Cape Cod. Get in early, and stake your space while the renovations are being finished: the crowds are already starting to pour in!

Disclosure: The Sagamore Hotel picked up the tab for this jaunt, but the observations are all mine!

Beach party in Central Park!

by Annie Scott on


Tel Aviv (pictured) is bringing a beach party to Central Park in New York City!

Sunday, June 21st (Father’s Day), the Naumburg Bandshell will be converted into one of Israel’s world-famous Mediterranean beaches for an all-day party. It might not look exactly like the above, but we’re hoping it’s gonna be close.

The party, sponsored by the Tel Aviv-Jaffa Centennial Administration, the Foreign and Tourism ministries, and El Al Israel Airways is to celebrate Tel Aviv’s 100th birthday. And how much does it cost to build a beach in Central Park? $200,000. Worth. It.

So, whether you’re looking for a quirky way to surprise your Dad or just in need of some sand between your toes, head to Central Park on Father’s Day and check it out! There will be backgammon and matkot (beach paddle ball), a dance party, and performances by Hatikva 6, Israel’s most famous reggae band, and FLOW, a multilingual Israeli rock ‘n’ roll band. It’s gonna be nuts.

Click here for more info, and we’ll see you in the park — rain or shine!

Layover: Chicago O’Hare

by Scott Carmichael on

If you are flying across the country, or heading abroad, then chances are you’ll be passing through O’Hare International Airport.

The airport itself is not a horrible place to be, but it is hardly the kind of location you’d want to spend a large portion of your day. As an international gateway to (or from) the United States, O’Hare is pretty unimpressive. So, if you find yourself stuck at the airport on a layover, check out some of these tips on how to survive.

Of all the major airports in the country, O’Hare probably has the least to offer in the way of entertainment and shopping – but its location also means you won’t really be able to leave unless you have more than 4 hours between flights.


Shorter (2 hour) layovers

Unless the prospect of walking from terminal to terminal appeals to you, you’ll probably want to stay in your own terminal. You can walk from terminal 1 to terminal 3 (there is no terminal 4, and terminal 5 is not connected to the others by walkways).

Terminal 1 (occupied by United Airlines) has a fairly underwhelming assortment of your average airport food, but it is also home to a Berghoff cafe, selling “authentic” German food, sandwiches and of course Berghoff drinks. You’ll find Berhoff’s in the C concourse of Terminal 1 by gate 25. One other “highlight” in Terminal 1 is the Billy Goat Tavern in the food court located in concourse C.

Don’t fall for the “authentic Chicago pizza” or “Chicago hot dog” stands located throughout the terminal – they are not authentic, unless authentic is code for overpriced and bad.

Right behind the TSA security zone in Terminal 1 is a replica dinosaur, on loan from the Chicago Field museum. Next to this dino is a Field museum store, which is great if you want souvenirs for people, without actually having to visit the museum itself.

Terminal 2 is home to a Children’s play area. It is a pretty long walk from the other terminals, but may be worth the trek if you need to entertain kids for any length of time. A similar play area can also be found in terminal 5 (International terminal).

Terminal 2 is also home to a small medical facility, where you can get a quick checkup or flu shot (in the winter season) as well as other immunizations.

American Airlines takes up most of Terminal 3, which happens to be the terminal with the best assortment of concessions. Sadly, this terminal is also one of the worst to navigate, and moving from one are to the next can easily take 20 minutes. The terminal is also cramped, so on a busy day you’ll be stuck in walking traffic.

There are virtually no stores at O’Hare Airport, especially if you are used to nice international airports like Hong Kong or Amsterdam. Of course, you’ll still be able to find the usual assortment of Hudson News, Brookstone and the Sunglass Hut, but don’t expect to find any cool stores where you can waste any of your time (or money).

If you have the time and energy to leave the secure area of the airport, you can head towards the (connected) airport Hilton, where you’ll find a decent bar, health club and even a tiny underground hotdog joint. Just keep in mind that the trip back through airport security may take up to an hour.

If you decide to stay in the airport, you can also splurge and get access to one of the many airport lounges. Unless you are an elite member with access rights, expect to pay about $50 the the “privilege’ of a couple of free drinks. If you are stuck at the airport for just a few hours, I’d suggest saving your money and not bothering with the lounges, none of them are really worth your money.

WiFi is available in the entire airport, access is $6.95 per day. The airport is also home to several free charging stations where you can power your gadgets for the next leg of your trip.

Longer layovers (+4 hours)

Downtown Chicago: O’Hare is about 13 miles from downtown Chicago, but this still translates to a 45 minute train ride. During the day, trains operate every 10 minutes and are fairly reliable. On weekends, the transit authority is often doing construction work, so be sure to check before you get on a train or you may lose valuable time with a bus transit between closed stations.

Once downtown you can of course enjoy the 1000’s of things Chicago has to offer, as long as you keep an eye on the time. If you have the time, try taking a quick trip to Millennium park by taking the Blue line (from O’Hare) and getting off at Clark/Lake. Change to the Brown line and get off at Randolph/Wabash. It’s then a short walk to the park. Other destinations worth checking out are the stores on Michigan Avenue or one of the many museums.

Unless you are 100% sure that traffic is light, I would not recommend a cab – it’ll take longer, and cost substantially more than public transit.

The area around O’Hare: O’Hare is surrounded by a whole lot of nothing (mainly offices), but there are still a couple of gems within 10 minutes of most terminals. Muvico is an all-digital movie theater just 10 minutes from the airport. The theater also features are very decent restaurant. You can get to Muvico with a $10 cab ride, or a 5 minute train (from O’Hare to the Rosemont station), followed by a 10 minute walk.

Rosemont is also home to a large convention center, so check out their schedule, perhaps there is something really interesting in town.

Rosemont is not much more than hotels, restaurants and the convention center, but it is also home to some very good restaurants. In the main “hotel row” of the village you’ll find a Mortons, Gibsons and Carlucci’s.

Cheaper food can be found towards the Allstate Arena area with a Steak and Shake, Panda Express and a Target. It may be boring, but it’s only an $8 ride away, and may be a simple way to kill some time.