Yemen? Yeah, man.

Travel writing is usually at its most interesting, in my opinion, when it takes us to places we’ve never been, and especially to places where we’ve never thought of going. Like most travel-lovers, I daydream constantly about visiting scores of different places, but I can confess to never having given much thought to the country of Yemen. That’s why I was so interested to read a new feature article in the New York Times travel section, “Yemen’s Exotic Secrets.”

The author paints a vivid though somewhat disturbing portrait of the Middle-Eastern republic, a country plagued by an unreported war, religious and political extremism, and consequentially, a poor reputation among tourists. Indeed, the only thing I associated with Yemen before reading this article was the bombing of the USS Cole that occurred in a Yemini port in 2000. Still, the author of the article maintains that, despite its poor reputation, Yemen is a place well worth a visit:

“So why visit a place this volatile? I came to find a complete and ancient way of life that is still largely intact. Moreover, despite the country’s problems (and a need for tourists to be both alert and cautious), the place feels surprisingly safe. Indeed, few attacks on tourists have taken place in what I consider Yemen’s two most spectacular draws: the Old City of Sana and the eastern oasis of Wadi Hadhramaut.”

Be sure to check out the excellent slideshow that accompanies the article.

The “Other Galapagos” Island

Two-hundred-and-fifty miles off the coast of Yemen, in the Indian Ocean, in an area pointed at by the Horn of Africa, is a rugged island called Socotra.

The number 250 has special significance in another respect: the island has been geologically separated from the mainland for 250 million years. This isolation means that there are over 600 species of plants and animals there that exist nowhere else on earth (a feat beaten only by the Galapagos and Hawaii).

It also means that human development has been slow: roughly the size of Long Island, and with a population of only 40,000, the first paved roads were built there only within the last few years. And don’t expect a ton of new development: 70% of the island has been designated as national parkland. Be sure to plan your trip well in advance, and plan to stay awhile: there are only two flights in and out per week.

Pictures from the island blew me away: dragon’s blood trees (like the one pictured from Harf Zimmermann), frankincense trees on lonely vistas, desert roses, rocky shorelines. (BTW, be sure to check out his other awesome pics on his Web site and the NYT’s piece, and, of course, on Flickr.)

Word for the Travel Wise (09/19/06)

How I’ve managed to forget this wonderful travel site often loaded with photography from some lesser explored places – I do not know. TravelAdventures.org has an amazing photo set of Yemeni people, the Haraz Mountains, qat, and other Yemeni things. I’m going to bookmark this one for future reference and so I don’t forget it again.

Today’s word is an Arabic word used in Yemen:

khwaga – foreigner

My Language Exchange is an excellent site in making friends across the globe while zoning in on the areas that give you the most trouble in your language of choice. While most services are free, contacting other members does cost a very small fee. Other learning tools for free standard Arabic online include this Learn Arabic site which has some remarkable lessons. The audio sounds a bit off for me, but they’ve got both the Naskh script (easy to read when learning the alphabet) and the Latin spelling of the letter. Babel Arabic is another good source. Planet Edu has an online listing of Arabic schools all over the Middle East, Africa and the U.S. Lastly, for purchase and a quick pocket guide there’s the Lonely Planet Egyptian Arabic Phrasebook.

Past Arabic words: wafin, akhdar, taeadol, shwiya, la bas, filoos

Photo of the Day (5/30/2006)


This photo made me do a double take when I came across it on the Gadling Flickr site. The incongruity of a surfboard and a Kalashnikov was just too much for my coffee-deprived mind to absorb this morning. But it is the real deal, and was taken by our good friend localsurfer. He says the shot was taken in Yemen, where “gun’s are a way of life”. Gnarly, dude.

Chewing Qat in Yemen

A fascinating little video over at National Geographic.com takes
a look
at the city of Muscat, Oman, where writer Bernice Notenboom and photographer Martin Hartleyo head out to
explore some of the ancient and extremely remote nooks of Yemen. Takes a while to load, but it’s worth it, we learn
about chewing Qat, a brush cultivated everywhere and that is masticated
a bit like chewing tobacco…but apparently the buzz isn’t that great. Still people are absolutely addicted to it. They
show one guy who is, I’m not making this up, a professional qat eater. Notenboom seems to really like the stuff and
gets a little rush from it. Something tells me that the marketing folks at Starbucks are making trips to Yemen as we
speak. You’ll be able to pick up an elegant little box of the stuff by the register, and they’ll call it something
fancy like Qat-izzi.