Weekend trip from Rio de Janeiro: Buzios, Brazil

While many travelers to Brazil choose to spend a majority of their time in the large and lively metropolitan city of Rio de Janeiro, there is a culturally rich and sophisticated village about two hours away that is well worth a visit. Búzios, with its sandy beaches, opportunities for adventure, ambient restaurants, and charming shops, was once a tiny fishing town made famous by a visit from actress Brigitte Bardot in 1964. Now, the area is thought to be similar to the luxurious Saint-Tropez, and for good reason.

Getting in:

To get to Búzios you can fly into Búzios Airport, which receives regular flights from Guarulhos Airport in São Paulo, or from Santos Dumont in Rio de Janeiro on Fridays and Sundays. Private and non-regular aircrafts use Umberto Modiano Airport, also in Armação dos Búzios. Likewise, you can catch a Viação 1001 bus daily from Rodoviária Novo Rio in Rio de Janeiro.
Beaches:

Búzios is world-renowned for its breathtaking beaches. While there are many worth exploring, here are some of the best:

João Fernandinho Beach (pictured right)- This small, laid-back beach has clear, calm water as well as a unique desert-like landscape.

Brava Beach– If you’d prefer something a bit more adventurous, Brava Beach is well-known for its strong waves and excellent surfing opportunities.

Geribá Beach– For those who want to be “in the know” and surround themselves with beautiful people, Geribá Beach attracts a hip and sexy crowd.

Azeda Beach– This secluded beach is said to be one of the most beautiful in all of Brazil. It’s considered an Environmental Protection Area and can only be accessed via water-taxi or hiking a small track from Ossos Beach.

Ferradura Bay– This warm-water beach is loaded with activities including banana boating, waterskiing, bar hopping, and trying different restaurants.

Sports and Adventure:

Because of its excellent water and nature-rich location, Búzios is home to many outdoor and active options, some of which are:

Scuba diving– Because of the crystal-clear water in Búzios, there is great visibility for seeing marine life like giant turtles, grouper, manta rays, and bright corals. Moreover, the water is around 72 degrees, making it comfortable to stay in for long periods of time. One great place to dive is Âncora Island, which you can reach in about 30 minutes via boat. Arraial do Cabo, which is about 30 minutes by car, is another great spot and is well known throughout the entire country. If you’ve never dived before and want to learn, or if you have but would still like to go with an instructor, Casamar, Mar Azul and True Blue are all reputable companies.

Búzios Golf Course– This elite course consists of 18-holes and was designed by internationally famous architects Pete and Perry Dye. Golfers come from all over the globe to experience the unique landscape and topography of the venue, which can be seen by clicking here.

Sailing– Búzios plays host to some great sailing, and athletes come from all over the world. Even famous Brazilian sailing champion Lars Grael practices in Búzios. Furthermore, the city hosts a Brazilian Sailing Week for the country each year. If you’d like to try sailing for yourself, I would recommend going with Happy Surf located on Ferradura Beach.

Experience an eco-tour– Búzios has a diverse landscape of mountains, hills, beaches, and rich flora, making it ideal for people who enjoy hiking and exploring the outdoors. Visit Emerências Reserve, the only place in Búzios where you will find the beautiful and vibrant endangered golden lion tamarin (monkeys), or Tauá Reserve, which is home to over 300 butterfly species and sixty bird types.

Fishing– Because Búzios is surrounded by beaches on all sides, it is a prime location for fishing. Shark, sea bass, anchovas, and sea bream can all be caught and enjoyed from the beaches; however, if you’d like to experience an authentic fishing trip with an experienced local, head over to the Fishermen’s Colony to rent a boat and hire a sailor who will promise a catch of up to twenty fish each hour.

Kite surfing– Búzios, the land of water sports, is also home to excellent kite surfing opportunities. While kite surfing is fun it can also be dangerous, which is why it’s important to learn from a certified instructor. Eduardo Graf, a 6-year instructor certified by the International Kiteboarding Association, runs the Búzios Kitesurf School. Participants will be able to fly like a kite over Rasa Beach while taking in views of the beaches and the town.

Explore the cultural hub of Rua das Pedras (Stone Street)

The cobblestone road, which is often thought of as the place to see and be seen, extends towards the Orla Bardot and is a continuation of the road accompanied by the Armação Beach. Moreover, bars, clubs, hotels, shops, restaurants, and art galleries litter the street, making it a lively and interesting area to explore the city through.

Experience the arts

There are an array of worthwhile galleries and shops on the road to put you in a creative mood while experiencing local and international art. Galeria das Artes features numerous artists from all over the world showcasing a mix of medias like bronze sculptures and oil paintings in permanent displays. If you enjoy public art, Christina Motta has beautiful sculptures set up in the area, like the famous bronze Brigitte Bardot piece (shown above). Other must-see galleries to visit on the street include Celina Lisboa (contemporary paintings), Abigail Schlemm (illusionist paintings), Atelier Flory Menezes (paintings and sculptures on permanent display), and Vilmar Madruga (world-renowned paintings).

Gastronomy

There are an array of diverse and delicious restaurants on Rua das Pedras, but these are some of the best:

Chez Michou– Stop here if you’re craving a casual, mostly open-air atmosphere and delicious sweet and savory crepes. Choose from unique options such as cheese and banana, chicken curry, and caramel banana while enjoying beers, cocktails, and music.

Sawadee– This upscale oriental restaurant with traditional low tables and plush cushions for kneeling brings a fusion of cultures to Brazil. The flavors are exotic and hand-carved decor, Asian-inspired art, outdoor gardens, and numerous small tea lights create an exotic ambiance.

Cigalon– This romantic restaurant has beach views, an extensive wine list, generous portions, and food that seems to be a mix of Argentine and French fare. It is one of the best places in town to get ceviche and delicious duck.

Capricciosa– This famous pizza restaurant bakes pies to perfection. Best of all, they’re made in a wood oven and guests can choose from an array of toppings like spinach, shrimp, tomatoes, olives, artichokes, and more.

Salt– If you like unique dishes and international flavor, you’ll love this place. This contemporary restaurant opened in January of 2011 and is often praised for its fresh seafood, friendly staff, beautiful dark chocolate interior, and upbeat music.

Estancia Don Juan– This funky restaurant is painted in vibrant Earth tones and serves some of the most delicious Argentine cuisine in town. Old photographs and posters adorn the walls and furnishings are carved with unique and precise detail. The wine list is extensive, and their steaks are served sizzling and juicy.

Nightclubs

The nightclubs on Rua das Pedras are some of the best in the world. Check out:

Pacha– For those who love techno and house music, this upbeat indoor/outdoor club has amazing views of Canto Beach. Their unique design features part of the club being partially built in glass, 3 feet below sea level, and overhangs the sea for 98 feet.

Moor- Here you will find a mix of Argentinian restaurants, a bar, and a nightclub on the second floor. The venue also hosts concerts and performances on a regular basis.

Privilege– Known for its world class DJ’s and breathtaking views of Orla Bardot, this upscale two-story nightclub brings in a sexy crowd. If you like trance music and beautiful people, this is where you’ll want to go.

Patio Havana
– This sophisticated venue features concerts of blues, jazz, and popular Brazilian music.

Rio Carnival 2012: Best street foods for partying all day (and night)

It’s impossible to survive consecutive days of Carnival blocos, parties, and parades without adding hits of nutrition to your daily beer diet. For this, Rio de Janeiro’s street food vendors have you covered.

Street food can be found everywhere in Rio de Janeiro, particularly during big events like Carnival and New Year’s. Mobile carts and stands offer cheap, tasty Brazilian eats — vital for travelers struggling to stay on a budget in a city where a side order of restaurant french fries can cost upwards of 25 reais (US$14). Though much of the fare isn’t healthy by a long shot, there are specialties that will fill you up without throwing you into a food coma that will render you incapable anything beyond a nap on Ipanema Beach. Here’s what’s kept me going all week.

Espetinhos
Brazil’s version of shish kabob, espetinhos are tasty morsels of barbequed meat on a stick. The most common are sausage and chicken, and many Brazilians add ketchup or hot sauce and throw some farinha de mandioca, a type of crunchy flour, on top.

Milho verde
After a few days at Carnival, you may start experiencing an intense craving for salad, greens, or any food that isn’t deep fried and over salted. Get your vegetable fix with boiled corn-on-the-cob, served with butter.

Quiejo coalho
For a shot of dairy, try quiejo coalho, a type of salty Brazilian cheese that is served grilled on a stick. Beware addiction.


Tapioca
If you’ve never tried fried tapioca, you’re in for a treat. Vendors cook the tapioca powder in a pan until it turns a pancake-like consistency, then they add a sweet or savory filling, like chocolate or dried meat. The Brazilian guys ahead of me recommended a traditional combination of coconut, sweet cheese, and condensed milk. Delicious.

Caipirinhas
Okay, so it’s not actually a food. And check out all that sugar! But ask your vendor to cut back on the white stuff and add extra lime, and you have a refreshing beverage that will keep you dancing in the streets late into the night. And that’s what you’re looking for, right?

Check out Gadling’s full range of Rio Carnival 2012 coverage here.

10 things to do in every city you visit

While every city has its own unique landmarks, culture, and sights to see, there are certain general things you can do in any city you visit to make your experience more memorable. To enhance your next trip, take this checklist with you and try to do each of these things in every city you visit.

Sample the local cuisine

One way to really get to know a culture is through the food. It’s seriously incredible how much cuisine can differentiate from culture to culture, and how much the way food is prepared and eaten, as well as what the food is, can tell you about a community. When visiting Ghana, Africa, I was amazed at how most of the staple foods seemed to come from root vegetables and were eaten without swallowing and without using utensils. While I wouldn’t say fu-fu and banku are my favorite foods, I definitely am glad I tried them and got to see the intense preparation that went into making these dishes. Even if you travel to a western country or a place that isn’t too different from your own, try a local favorite or something that the area is known for (it will almost definitely taste better than what you’re used to anyway). If you’re in Maine make sure to have a lobster. Visiting Naples, Italy? Eat a slice of pizza from its birthplace. Traveling to Australia? Vegemite, Tim Tams, and barbequed meats are definite musts.Sip the country’s signature drink

While all regions have local dishes, there is usually a signature drink as well, whether it be a cocktail or locally produced wine or beer. Many times the local libation will not only give you a good buzz, but will also give you insight into the culture and region. Drink a Guinness in Ireland and you’ll also be tasting a bit of the local Wicklow Mountains. Sip on a Caipirnha in Brazil and you’ll not only be ingesting the locally produced cachaça; you’ll also be learning that the now sophisticated drink was originally a country bumpkin favorite, which is what the name literally translates to.

Visit a museum

What better way to get background information and get to know the roots of a place than through its artifacts, history, art, architecture, and old photographs. Maybe you’ll find something of particular interest to you and you’ll want to go out into the city and explore it further. Museums are great starting points for igniting a traveler’s curiosity about a culture and place, whether it be to go visit a historical site, visit a local art gallery, or read a book on an ancient civilization.

See a local craftsman at work

I try to do this as much as possible when traveling, as you’ll often meet people who are happy to share personal stories on their work and how it relates to their culture. In Ghana, I loved going to the shops of local painters and watching them work, asking them a million questions about what the symbols on their pieces meant and where they got their inspiration from. From this, I learned a lot about drum culture in Ghana as well as the importance of God and even some old legends. Moreover, in Morocco, I got to sit and watch a local tile maker create authentic Moorish tiles, something I didn’t know was even relevant to the culture. He even gave me a tile as a souvenir, and when the Moroccan Courtyard exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in my home state of New York, it felt really good to have a firsthand account of the craft and the culture.

Ride the local public transport system

Not only will opting for public transportation over taxis and car rentals save you money, it will also help you become a better navigator of the city. Moreover, you’ll get to experience how a normal person in the city lives and potentially even get to interact with a local. In Ghana, Africa, their form of public transportation was the tro-tro (shown right), which was basically a packed-out van, usually with the seats barely attached to the floor. Working up the nerve to actually figure out how to take the tro-tro was scary, but once I did it I definitely felt more culturally immersed. Plus, a lot of interesting impromptu events happen on the tro-tro, like sermons, choir singing, and unique product demonstrations.

Learn some basic phrases in the local language

I don’t think there’s any greater accomplishment when traveling then actually being able to have a conversation with a local in their language. It can be as simple as exchanging greetings, asking someone for their name, and telling them it was nice to meet them. People will appreciate that you’ve taken the time to try to get to know their language, and if you can barter in the local tongue, you’re also less likely to get ripped off in the markets and when taking a taxi.

Have an experience in nature

While it’s important to get to know the people and culture of a city, it’s also worthwhile to get to deeper understanding of the place itself. Explore the landscape; the wildlife, mountains, rivers, beaches, valleys, forests, rock, and plants. Go hiking, rafting, swimming, or climbing and just really get to know a place in its raw form. It’s also great if you can go with a local guide, as you’ll be able to learn more about legends and meanings of certain places, medicinal plants, and how to safely interact with wildlife. Not only is it a budget-friendly way to enjoy a region; it’s also healthy to spend time outdoors and you’ll get some great photo opportunities.

Befriend a local

I don’t mean ask a local for directions or where a great restaurant is, but instead ask them to go to a restaurant with you. It may seem odd at first, but hanging out with a local is a great way to find out the “personal” side of a cultural and can also give you access to experiences you may not have otherwise had. From befriending locals in Thailand I got the chance to eat meals at peoples’ homes, attend community events in remote villages, and learn to cook in local kitchens. I also got onto a few free-entry, free-drink guestlists at clubs that I never would have had access to by myself.

Browse a local market

Skip the high-end chain shops and the restaurants with signs that read “English menu available” and instead opt for the outdoor markets. These colorful, aesthetically-pleasing places are usually bursting with energy, delicious food, and quality merchandise. In terms of cuisine, markets offer fresh healthy, foods that are usually cheaper and more flavorful than anything you’ll get at a supermarket. And the handicrafts, housewares, and clothing that are offered are usually authentic and locally-made.

Watch a cultural tradition or ceremony

The traditions and ceremonies a culture partakes in tell a lot about their values and beliefs, and because they vary so much from region to region, make for a really memorable experience. I remember in Laos taking part in the Alms Giving tradition where the locals wake up at dawn to feed the monks as they line up in a procession down the street with their food baskets. It really sparked my interest to learn more about Buddhism and monk culture in South East Asia, and my inquisition led me to go with a local to attend a prayer service at one of the temples. The tradition and what I learned really left an impression on me even after I returned home.

Five foods to try in Ecuador (besides guinea pig)


When discussing food in Ecuador, the most talked about meal is guinea pig, or cuy. But outside of butterflying cute cuddly rodents on a grill, Ecuadorians eat many other foods that are worth a try. From traditional to tropical, here are a few of the can’t-miss eats in Ecuador.

Llapingauchos: My personal favorite Ecuadorian food is llapingauchos, a traditional Andean potato pattie stuffed with cheese and cooked on a griddle until crispy and brown. Llapingauchos are typically topped with a fried egg and a few slivers of cheese and avocado, and served alongside carne de res (beef) and a delicious-looking salad that I would not dare touch for fear of contracting a parasite (it’s not recommended you eat uncooked vegetables from restaurants in Ecuador).

Pan de yuca: Made from the root of a tree, yuca is actually the third-largest source of carbohydrates for meals in the world. In Ecuador, it comes in many forms: in the rainforest yuca is grated and turned into a tortilla (pictured above), while in big cities there are plenty of fast food joints mixing yuca with cheese and baking it to make a bit-sized treats. Similar in size and consistency to a donut hole, pan de yuca is served piping hot so that the outside is toasty while the inside is soft and warm. Pan de yuca is usually enjoyed with sippable yogurt or coffee.

Choclo con queso: Translated as “corn with cheese,” its easy to guess what this meal consists of. Cobs of Andean corn, or choclo, have large kernels and taste less sweet than the corn sold in the United States. Ecuadorian cheese, on the other hand, is very fresh and moist with little flavor, much like tofu. Choclo con queso is often served alongside some earthy beans, making it a pretty nutritious meal.

Almuerzos ejectivos: Almuerzos ejectivos are fixed-price lunches that usually consist of a cup of fresh fruit juice, a bowl of soup, and a plate of rice accompanied by a piece of meat and/or beans (if you’re lucky, there will also be a small dessert). These lunches cost anywhere from $2 up, and the quality varies considerably depending on where you dine–a good tip is to see which restaurants are already populated with locals. Although sometimes criticized for being overly starchy and bland, within arms reach you will always find plenty of ají (hot sauce) to spice things up. More often than not, soups are served with a basket of popcorn or chilfles (plaintain chips) to be mixed in like crackers. Don’t be surprised to find a whole potato or a chicken leg in the bowl of soup. Although these aren’t the tastiest meals you’ll ever eat, it certainly gives you a real slice of Ecuadorian life.

Fresh fruit: This might seem like a no-brainer, but it would be a shame to visit Ecuador without trying the fresh tropical fruits available there. Although bananas, mangoes, and pineapples are popular, there are also some interesting varieties that are hard to find elsewhere–like guanabana (which tastes like a mix of strawberry, pineapple, and coconut), naranjilla (a mix between a tomato and an orange), and tomate de arbol (a sweet tomato that grows on a tree). Get them fresh at a market or from a cart on the street, or stop by a fruit stand and have them mix you up a fresh smoothie or shake.

Money in Ecuador: How far can $1 get you?

Ecuador is one place where a little money really does go a long way. Not only does the country use United States currency, but it’s amazing how many things you can purchase for just one dollar. Whether you are looking to drink an oversized beer at a pub or feast on 20 fresh bananas (just try to scarf them all down before they turn brown!), it comes as no surprise that Ecuador repeatedly makes the list of budget-friendly places to visit–as well as our top picks for adventure destinations in 2012.

Start the day with a cup of coffee–or four. Most cafes will give you your caffeine fix for 25 to 35 cents a cup. Just don’t be prepared to get Starbucks-style java: in Ecuador, coffee is usually a cup of hot water with some instant coffee served on the side for you to stir in. If that’s not up your alley, you can get a large party-sized cup of made-to-order juice for just a dollar at a fruterias, or fruit shop. They let you choose any mix of fruit of vegetables your heart desires, and no sugar or water will be added. Don’t be afraid to try a fruit you’ve never seen or heard of before, either: I tried guanábana, maracuya, naranjilla and tomate de arbol while I was there, and still find myself craving them all. On the other hand, if you simply prefer soda or bottled water, it’s also sold at a reasonable price: 30 to 60 cents depending on the size. Most of it comes in glass bottles, too-a fun game to play is to see how long your bottle has been in circulation; my record was a bottle that dated back to 1994.Being introduced to new flavors and climates doesn’t always agree with out bodies, but in Ecuador it’s no bother. If you are having altitude sickness, a stomachache, or a mild allergic reaction, just drop by a pharmacy where there is no need to buy a whole box of medicine-pills are sold individually and they’re usually cheap. Buy what you need, and if you don’t feel better the next day just come back for more. You can also buy a lot of medicines you would need a prescription for in the U.S.-but that’s a whole different story.

Getting around in Ecuador is cheap, too. A taxi will take you up to a mile for just a dollar, while the city bus will take you anywhere around major cities like Quito and Guayaquil for just 25 cents. Buses run all over the country, and as a general rule the cost is $1 per hour-making the uncomfortable 10-hour bus ride from Quito to the coast totally worth it.

As for food, you might not be able to get a complete dinner for a dollar–but choclo con queso, or corn on the cob served with a chunk of cheese, will hold you over for awhile. Some more familiar menu options for just a buck include pizza, fruit cups, and foot-long hot dogs, which are sold in parks and on streets from vendors. Just keep in mind that hot dogs are served with some unfamiliar options like mayonnaise, tomatoes, and crushed potato chips.

Drinking in Ecuador might be one of the best deals to be had. A large bottle of beer is just a dollar at many pubs, and if you search hard enough you might be able to find mixed drinks like cuba libres and rum and coke for the same price. Don’t leave the country without trying a canelazo, a traditional drink made with fruit juice and sugar can alcohol, served hot. And if you smoke when you drink, you can get a cute half-pack of ten cigarettes for just a dollar.

When it comes to souvenirs, a dollar can get you a few things. At Quito’s Mercado Artesenal, handmade bracelets, earrings, coin purses, and finger puppets can be picked up for a dollar or less. Take a short bus ride to the famous Otovalo Market, the biggest bazaar in all of South America, and you can get even better deals.

Although the deals sound great, take my advice: if you plan on visiting bring a roll of quarters and the smallest bills you can imagine. Nobody in this country seems to have change, and very often convenience stores would rather refuse selling you anything than change a $10 bill. The horror stores of cab drivers chastising people for using “enormous bills” when trying to pay a $3 cab far with a $5 bill are true-and if you find yourself with a $20 bill, be prepared to have a panic attack.

[Photos by Libby Zay and Andres Felipe Mena]