Everything about Japan is unique. The people, the culture, the media and the food are all reflections of the how incredibly fascinating the entire country truly is. Having visited Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka back in May, I have been jonesing for an authentic Japanese experience ever since I returned home. Sure, I can find great ramen joints and sushi counters in New York City but no place can make me feel like I have somehow teleported myself to the Pacific Rim. I was getting the shakes. I needed a fix. I was losing all hope. Until I went to Mitsuwa.
Located in Edgewater, NJ (just across the Hudson River from Manhattan), Mitsuwa is a big ol’ slice of Japan in the land of diners, strip malls and other bastions of generic American suburbia. It’s a supermarket, a food court and the center of a Japanese shopping complex that will satisfy so many of your Japanese cravings. I had been eager to visit Mitsuwa for some time now, and this weekend provided the perfect opportunity to make the trip from Manhattan to [shudder] New Jersey.
Acting as my guides for my pseudo-Japanese jaunt were my friend Matt, his Japanese girlfriend Nodoka and her sister Asami. With their help, no product would be beyond my comprehension. But, perhaps harder than understanding Japanese marketing gimmicks, I had to get myself to Edgewater, NJ.
Luckily for all of us New Yorkers, Mitsuwa runs shuttle buses from the Port Authority Bus Terminal directly to Mitsuwa for $3 each way ($2 for children). During the week, buses leave Gate 51 of the Port Authority Bus Terminal once an hour and return hourly from Mitsuwa. On weekends, buses leave from Manhattan and Mitsuwa every half-hour. You can find detailed instructions for taking the shuttle bus along with schedules and helpful photographs on Mitsuwa’s shuttle bus information page. The ride takes about 20 minutes and you spend most of the time in the Lincoln Tunnel. A word to the wise: It’s a mini-bus and they don’t allow people to stand. Arrive 15 minutes early to ensure you get a seat rather than having to wait for the next bus.
Once you arrive, you’ll notice that Mitsuwa is more than just a supermarket. You will immediately find yourself in the food court. And I’m not talking about Manchu Wok and Cinnabon. You’ll have your choice of ramen, tempura, katsudon and so much more. Lining the walls are display cases filled with lacquered prepared foods that provide visual evidence of the artistry of the food that awaits you. The sight of those shiny, preserved culinary specimens transported me to Japan (in my mind, at least). My guides directed me right to Santoka, a Hokkaido-based ramen restaurant with outposts throughout Japan.
The salty broth and tender pork were everything you hope to find in a quality bowl of ramen. And looking around, there’s absolutely nothing that would remind you that you are in New Jersey. The whole experience would be disorienting if your mind wasn’t so focused on how damn good the noodles are. Once you’ve satisfied your need for instant gratification, it’s time to get shopping. Here’s where it pays to have some Japanese speakers with you.
All of the signage on Mitsuwa is in English and Japanese, but almost all of the products are Japanese imports. As such, most have Japanese labels with no indication in English of what the item is, does or why you should own it. You’ll find Japanese juices, teas, beers, frozen foods, produce, meats, fish, household goods and appliances. And most of the items are very reasonably priced. Still, you will encounter the occasional specialty item that has been marked up. I was in the market for my favorite Japanese beer, Yebisu, and was disappointed to find that it was $18 for a six-pack. Hardly seemed worth it. I was, thankfully, cheered up by the discovery that a 750ml bottle of Suntory Whiskey was less than $40.
I grabbed some homemade karaage (fried chicken), some fish snacks (literally tiny dehydrated fish that I last enjoyed at a sumo tournament in Tokyo), a few bottles of Pocari Sweat (my hangover cure of choice), frozen ramen, miso soup mixes and a peanut butter spread in a tube. At least that’s what Nodoka told me it is. Time will tell on that one. Truth be told, I could have spent several hundred dollars in Mitsuwa if I didn’t exert some self-control. And it’s not because I’m drawn to gimmicks or novelty items (except for peanut butter in a tube). It’s because you can’t find these products in most places and they’re delicious.
A few things worth noting: Come hungry. Between the food court and the staff walking around with free samples, you’ll be full before you reach the register. As I meandered the aisles, I was offered samples of Wagyu beef, miso soup and grilled salmon. If you intend to buy a rice cooker or any other appliances, do not make the trip on a Sunday. Bergen County (NJ) has odd Blue Laws that prohibit the sale of appliances on Sundays. Something about Jesus not wanting us to enjoy onigiri on “his day.” If you are a fan of seafood, visit the fish mongers in the back of the market. The fish is fresh, the knives are sharp and the staff is incredibly gifted.
When you’re done in Mitsuwa, check out some of the other shops in the complex. There’s a bookstore where you can stock up on all of the manga that your heart desires, a ceramic shop with beautiful housewares and a shop that sells everything from Hello Kitty backpacks to Hello Kitty bento boxes. Then hop on the bus that’s waiting for you right outside the door of Mitsuwa, pay your $3 and say goodbye to Japan…er, New Jersey.
All in all, I spent more than two hours eating, shopping, browsing and relishing my “return” to Japan. Everything from the lighting to the pop music made me feel like I had taken a trip to the Land of the Rising Sun. But my passport was safely tucked away in my apartment and the Port Authority Bus Terminal will never be mistaken for Shinjuku Station.
Get to Mitsuwa ASAP. They have several locations in California and one outpost in Chicago, all of which you can find here.
Now, I’m sure some of you are doubting my accounts of the authenticity of Mitsuwa. For those of you still questioning whether anything in the States could successfully recreate the look and feel of a Japanese shopping experience, well, take a look below and guess where this photo was taken.
