Weekending: Sarajevo

Istanbul’s unique position straddling two continents affords a lot of travel opportunities, with quick direct flights throughout Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. As an American living in Turkey, I try to explore as often as I can, particularly to less-traveled destinations. While my last weekend trip was to Prague, for this trip, I ventured to another Eastern European capital with far fewer tourists but an equally fascinating history.

The place: Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina
When I stepped off the plane in Sarajevo, the immigration officer asked me what I was doing in Bosnia. I struggled for a moment before answering “holiday” but really had no single good answer. A combination of cheap tickets, a holiday weekend, and an intriguing destination was what brought me to Bosnia. Most people associate Sarajevo with the tragic Bosnian War in the 1990s, or as part of the former communist Yugoslavia, but today the city is rebuilding and winning fans with cafe culture, Ottoman architecture, and easy access to outdoor adventure. The blend of religions and ethnicities have led the city to be called the European Jerusalem, and travelers will find the excellent exchange rate ($1 USD = 1.5 BAM, which is tied to the Euro 2:1) and widely-spoken English especially welcoming.


  • One of the most amazing things about Bosnia is the the people. Resilient, scrappy, and friendly, Sarajevans have survived a lot and recovered remarkably well in a short time. I was particularly sobered by imagining the incredibly difficult adolescence people my age (30) must have had during the 1992-95 conflict. To get an idea of life under siege, you only have to walk around the city and take in the many bullet hole-ridden, damaged and shelled buildings, like the Moorish National Library which is undergoing reconstruction. Every visitor should go to the Historical Museum, across the street from the infamous Holiday Inn war correspondent hub, with a humble but moving exhibit on the siege. The Tunnel of Hope is another must-see museum documenting and preserving the cramped passage between the city and the free zone, where residents could connect with aid and communication with the outside world.
  • Sarajevo also offers excellent value. Decent hotels start at 40 Euros and rarely top 100 Euros. I stayed at the very comfortable and personal Hotel Michele for 85 Euros with a nice breakfast and wifi; celebrity guests have included Bono and Morgan Freeman. Tram or bus tickets are under 2 BAM, with taxi rides among the lowest in Europe (the most expensive ride is to the airport and under 25 BAM). Most attractive to expats who pay a small fortune for alcohol: beer, wine, and cocktails are 3 to 10 BAM most everywhere. While not a party town, there are a few good night spots including one of my favorite bars ever: the delightful Zlatna Ribica with the most well-stocked bar bathroom I’ve ever seen.


  • While many of the sights are fascinating and affecting, the small museums and tourist attractions are still limited and can be seen in a day or two. The historic Bascarsija Turkish quarter is fun to stroll but crowded with more souvenir shops than craftsmiths these days. Sarajevo is better spent relaxing at a cafe on pedestrian Ferhadija Street and absorbing the history and culture than ticking sights off a list. Surrounded by mountains and valleys, there are also lots of opportunities for hikes, day trips, and skiing in winter.
  • Bosnian food is not bad, but many staple dishes are strikingly similar to Turkish food, such as stuffed burek pastries and cevapi meatballs (see: Turkish kofte). While tasty and locally-sourced, the food in Sarajevo tends to be heavy and meat-centric, without the abundance of salads and fish that balance out Turkish menus. High-end international and modern Bosnian restaurants are popping up around town, while cheap eats can be had for under 10 BAM. Reliable mid-range options include Noovi Wine Bar near the British Embassy for pizzas and a great regional wine list, and To Be or Not to Be (name reflects the plucky and determined spirit of Sarajevans during the siege) for homemade pastas and funky twists on traditional dishes. A famous local restaurant is Inat Kuca, or House of Spite, across the river from the National Library. The story behind the name dates back to the building of the library (then City Hall) when the house’s resident refused to let them build over his home, so they took the house brick-by-brick across the river to where it stands today (how’s that for thwarting eminent domain?).

Getting there

Tiny but admirably high-tech (they offer mobile and web check-in) Sarajevo International Airport doesn’t offer many flights outside of Eastern Europe, but national carrier B&H Airlines has affordable flights from major hubs including Frankfurt, Istanbul, and Zurich. Many travelers arrive via car or bus from neighboring countries; Croatia’s popular Dubrovnik is 5-7 hours by car and there’s an overnight train to/from Zagreb.

Make it a week

Check out the other half of B&H: Mostar in Herzegovina is another beautiful river town with a famous bridge not far from the Croatian coast. Bosnia is also an emerging destination for adventure travel with a large diversity of activities and landscapes. The Balkans have a wealth of places to go, but be aware of the history and potential Serbia visa issues when traveling overland.

Would you want Bob Dylan to voice your GPS?

Earlier today, we ran a poll asking readers if they prefer their GPS devices to have a male or female voice? Andy Murdock, an astute reader, left us a comment pointing out that Bob Dylan is in negotiations to voice a GPS unit. Sure, Dylan’s a music legend and an icon, but is his voice conducive to getting me from Point A to Point B?

I’ve seen Dylan in concert. I would consider myself a fan. I’ve understood about six words I’ve heard him speak in interviews. He sounds like he keeps marbles in his mouth. I need my GPS to sound clear and keep me advised of my route. The last thing I need is Bob Dylan warbling, “The speed limits they are a changin’,” as I approach a school zone.

This news did get me thinking, though. What celebrities would I want to voice my GPS? Eartha Kitt would be amusing. And everything is better when voiced by Morgan Freeman. Christopher Walken does a great Lady Gaga, but not sure he could spit out turn-by-turn directions quickly enough for my taste.

Different strokes for different folks, I suppose. Having Bob Dylan tell you to turn left is a good idea for someone. But it ain’t me, babe.

What celebrity would you want to voice your GPS? Leave us a comment below.

Photo by Flickr user ♣Tigerlily ♣.

Historic “Electric Map” at Gettysburg is still gone, but not forgotten

I had high hopes someone would rescue the “Electric Map” at Gettysburg, but I haven’t seen anything new about it since the plug was pulled on the attraction in April. (See article) Here’s a link to “Save the Map,” a movement started to, well, save the map, but it doesn’t say the map was saved.

The map used to be at the Gettysburg National Park Visitor’s Center, but the new visitor center, now called Gettysburg Museum of the American Civil War dumped it for more modern trimmings.

I suppose the film A New Birth of Freedom narrated by Morgan Freeman is a fine way to let visitors know about the Civil War and the battle at Gettysburg, but I’ll miss the map when I go to here the next time.

That map, though, was funky and I think worth saving if nothing else for its nostalgic value and history. It was first displayed in the 1939. Perhaps another organization will acquire it. I hope so.

I went to Gettysburg when I was in the 5th grade. The electric map is about the only thing I remember. For a map experience via YouTube video, keep reading.

If you’re a person who likes details and is a visual learner, it seems to me this is a simple way to learn a lot of information and be able to see how a battle is organized.

Kofi Annan, the first global citizen

I am attending the State of the Planet conference at Columbia University today and tomorrow. (I will have more on that later.)

I just heard Kofi Annan speak for the first time in real life. He is a charismatic and funny story teller. Lee Bollinger, President of Columbia University, called him the “First truly global citizen of the world.” To prove that he lives up to his expectation, Kofi Annan volunteered a story.

He and his wife were vacationing in a remote corner of the planet one time, trying to stay away from any news, publicity and people. He said they lasted three weeks before it got really boring. When they finally ventured out for the first time, he was–as expected–recognized instantly. A local man came up to him and said: “I know who you are!” Then he shouted. “You are Morgan Freeman!”

Kofi Annan smiled and signed an autograph for him. It said: A Free Man.