Flights within Europe for $50

At one point, Europe had more than one hundred budget airlines. Not all of them made it through the turbulent few years, but those who remained (some fifty) are pretty solid. You know the spiel – you can book one-way tickets without penalty, there is no free food on board, usually no assigned seats, you are only allowed to carry on 1 bag and check 1 bag, otherwise you pay. That is after all, how they make their money. If your dates are flexible, the tickets are very cheap.

SkyEurope.com is one of those airlines. The biggest budget airline in Central Europe, headquartered in Slovakia, started a major promotion today to celebrate their 5-year anniversary. They fly to all major European destination and have new planes.

This week only, you can buy tickets anywhere they fly for FREE (you only pay taxes). I booked a round trip ticket from Prague to Rome for $50. Go snatch some!

Lost luggage. Really, Really Lost.

A few days ago, I blogged about my horrible experience at the lost baggage counter in Barcelona. Today, exactly a week later, I am already back home from a trip to Spain and France, still without that bag!

Although I managed to see Barcelona and drove up to the south of France, my luggage–it seems–saw a lot more of the world without me.

This is the sad story of poor me and my bag:

  • Monday – I arrive in Barcelona from Prague on Czech Airlines, direct flight mind you. My bag does not.
  • Tuesday – My bag arrives in Barcelona. Should be delivered to my hotel “asap”.
  • Wednesday – I am am enjoying the Costa Brava while someone at Iberia decides to send my bag back to Prague.
  • Thursday – I am driving up to France from Spain. Czech Air promises they will send the bag to me in Bordeaux.
  • Friday – I break down and buy new clothes and toiletries. Bag does not make it to Bordeaux.
  • Saturday – Marathon du Medoc day. My bag is apparently on its way to Bordeaux, yet somehow it gets rerouted to Madrid and then San Sebastien, Spain, of all places.
  • Sunday – I give up and drive to San Sebastien. The bag is not there and apparently has never been there.
  • Monday – I fly back home. Czech Airlines tell me they have no idea where my bag is.

According to USA Today, out of the 3,7 million bags that got lost by airlines last year, 420,000 are lost permanently. Umm, it is a little hard to imagine where almost half million bags end up. Apparently in some lost baggage center in Alabama. With the new “liquid” regulation, the number of checked bags has gone up and one would assume the number of lost bags would go up as well.

I love traveling, but the recent developments in the airline industry make me more and more convinced that trains might be the way to go.

Kung Pao Chicken with Olives?

One of the great joys of traveling is undoubtedly the food one gets to sample. That applies not only to the local specialties. When traveling, I always like to taste how different cultures handle cuisines that are exotic to them. For example, how often do you see mayonaise on those fries that came with your burger? That’s how you’ll normally get them in Europe.

Chinese or Thai cuisines are my favorite ‘culture barometers,’ since they taste completely different everywhere: each culture injects a bit of their own taste into it. In Prague, for example, you will be hard-pressed to find a Chinese restaurant that does not automatically serve their dishes with parsley, cucumber and tomato (the two Czech staple vegetables) on the side. In the US, on the other hand, you almost always get the convenient ¨soup, eggroll or salad¨ choice with your Chinese meals. I certainly did not see that anywhere in China.

Today on the Costa Brava in Spain, I actually saw Kung-Pao chicken garnished with lettuce and olives. Part of the Spanish-Chinese diet, I imagine?

Red Corner: Budapest vs. Prague

On Sunday when The New York Times printed an article titled, Budapest Is Stealing Some of Prague’s Spotlight, I just had to smile.

I’ve debated many times with fellow travelers over which is the better city, Prague or Budapest? One thing I’ve learned is that those who visit Budapest first tend to prefer the Hungarian capital over the Czech one. Those who visit Prague first, consider Budapest a lesser, and therefore inferior version of the Czech capital.

It’s been many years now since I visited Budapest, but the gist of the New York Times article is that Budapest has come a long ways in that time. Thanks to a strong flow of foreign investment, the city is no longer grungy and smelling of post-communism, but has “turned the corner” and is now all “cutting edge and credit cards and trendy restaurants.”

I’m not convinced that this in itself is enough to “steal Prague’s spotlight” but nonetheless, I am impressed. I’ll certainly detour there on my next trip to the Czech Republic and judge for myself.

Real Fishermen–Carpe Diem

Neil’s post about goulash reminded me of another controversial Czech specialty – fried carp. Don’t make that disgusted face! Carp can actually taste good, if prepared properly.

Europe has a fascinating history of fish farming, or aquaculture, dating back to the Middle Ages. Historically, monasteries were the centers of the nascent fishing “industry,” and many ponds were created to feed members of the Church.

This tradition dates back to the 11th century, and spread throughout Europe. My home country, the Czech Republic, was one of the biggest fishing centers, sporting as many as 25,000 fish ponds by the 15th century.

The primary meal fish is, and has been, carp, but eel, pike, perch, and trout are also common–and tasty–fish “crops.”

The tradition continues to this day, but you’ll have to travel a little out of the way to see it in action. You’re not going to see these events on a tour bus or just sitting around in the city. No, you’re going to have to get out to the country, to a local fish farmer.

The most common, most efficient, method is to drain the lake to one end, and just scoop up net-fulls of thrashing fish. In Czech, we call it a “vylov” (pronounced “VEE-lof”). The modern method usually goes like this: men from the village are invited to come at 4am, warmly dressed, ready to get drunk, and get wet. Waders or tall waterproof boots are required. Big, burly men catch, separate, and weigh the fish, which are quickly put into holding tanks on big trucks–essentially aquariums on wheels. Water, fish, and body-warming slivovice (90+ proof clear plum brandy–preferably homemade) are sloshed around in a frenzy until the lake is emptied. The pace slows somewhat, as the slivovice kicks in, but it’s still a blur of activity. The day is capped off by a big feast for the participants, with, of course, delicious dishes made of fish: fish soup, smoked fish, and fried fish.

Once a tanker truck is full, it’s bound for markets all over Europe, or, at Christmas time, particularly in Germany and the former Eastern block, the fish end up in big barrels for purchase by families who can’t wait to put their carp in the bathtub, where they swim briefly before being prepared in the Christmas Eve dinner.

Unfortunately, the European Union’s ridiculous, burdensome regulations are killing local agriculture and aquaculture. Better get there soon, or it will all be gone.