Cool Subways

by Erik Olsen on

I ride the New York subway nearly ever day and you know what? I’m not that impressed by it. In a artistic, aesthetically pleasing way, I mean. Sure, there are a few lovely stations around the city. The 79th Street A/C station is amazing. It sits right outside the Museum of Natural History and the interior of the station is decorated with tile mosaic art of various animals, fish and extinct lifeforms. It’s very cool. But take a look around the rest of the city and there’s only a handful where the city has really taken the time to do anything interesting (another cool station is 14th street where the artists Tom Otterness has installed several hundred little brass cartoony statuettes).

But this art-spartan attitude is not the case in other stations around the globe, as in evidence by this post over at coolhunter that shows off some of the more artistically-inspired subways around the world. I have to say in taking a look at these photos that I am most intrigued by Moscow, Munich and Stockholm, none of which I have visited personally…much to my dismay.

Real Fishermen–Carpe Diem

by Iva Skoch on

Neil’s post about goulash reminded me of another controversial Czech specialty – fried carp. Don’t make that disgusted face! Carp can actually taste good, if prepared properly.

Europe has a fascinating history of fish farming, or aquaculture, dating back to the Middle Ages. Historically, monasteries were the centers of the nascent fishing “industry,” and many ponds were created to feed members of the Church.

This tradition dates back to the 11th century, and spread throughout Europe. My home country, the Czech Republic, was one of the biggest fishing centers, sporting as many as 25,000 fish ponds by the 15th century.

The primary meal fish is, and has been, carp, but eel, pike, perch, and trout are also common–and tasty–fish “crops.”

The tradition continues to this day, but you’ll have to travel a little out of the way to see it in action. You’re not going to see these events on a tour bus or just sitting around in the city. No, you’re going to have to get out to the country, to a local fish farmer.

The most common, most efficient, method is to drain the lake to one end, and just scoop up net-fulls of thrashing fish. In Czech, we call it a “vylov” (pronounced “VEE-lof”). The modern method usually goes like this: men from the village are invited to come at 4am, warmly dressed, ready to get drunk, and get wet. Waders or tall waterproof boots are required. Big, burly men catch, separate, and weigh the fish, which are quickly put into holding tanks on big trucks–essentially aquariums on wheels. Water, fish, and body-warming slivovice (90+ proof clear plum brandy–preferably homemade) are sloshed around in a frenzy until the lake is emptied. The pace slows somewhat, as the slivovice kicks in, but it’s still a blur of activity. The day is capped off by a big feast for the participants, with, of course, delicious dishes made of fish: fish soup, smoked fish, and fried fish.

Once a tanker truck is full, it’s bound for markets all over Europe, or, at Christmas time, particularly in Germany and the former Eastern block, the fish end up in big barrels for purchase by families who can’t wait to put their carp in the bathtub, where they swim briefly before being prepared in the Christmas Eve dinner.

Unfortunately, the European Union’s ridiculous, burdensome regulations are killing local agriculture and aquaculture. Better get there soon, or it will all be gone.

Red Corner: Spy Tour

by Neil Woodburn on

Berlin and Moscow are two exotic cities which struck fear into the hearts of western spies throughout the Cold War.

There is nowhere on this planet more legendary for espionage and things-that-go-bump-in-the-night than these two capitals. Sadly, with the fall of communism their glory days have long passed. The spooks and their haunts, however, still remain.

Lovers of the Spy Genre will be happy to hear that The Smithsonian is conducting a nine-day tour this October that whisks cloak-and-dagger fans through the former headquarters of East Germany’s Stasi, the KGB Museum in Moscow, the Glienicke Bridge (where spy exchanges were conducted), Gorky Park, the remains of the Berlin Wall and a host of other John LeCarre locations. The tour will even be joined by retired KGB officers in Moscow who will undoubtedly have a handful of great stories to tell.

The cost is $6695 and must be paid with small, non-sequential bills or uncut diamonds.

Red Corner: Checkpoint Charlie Museum

by Neil Woodburn on

Museums are leisurely walks interrupted occasionally by exhibits that rivet you to a standstill; there is no other speed quite like it.

While such absorbing meandering is de rigueur in galleries worldwide, there is only one museum I’ve ever visited that is so utterly fascinating that riveting standstills occur every couple of inches.

The Checkpoint Charlie Museum in Berlin chronicles the many escapes made under, over or through the Berlin Wall. Each is painstakingly detailed with written narratives that read like spy novels, numerous photographs, and quite often, the actual tools used in the escape–such as the gondola from a homemade hot air balloon, improvised scuba gear, handmade Border Guard uniforms, and more.

The Tunnel Room details the numerous tunnels dug under the wall and is a true testament to the evils to which some men can sink and the courage and strength with which others respond.

Make sure to carve a large chunk of time out of your day for this museum when visiting Berlin; it took me most of the day to get through.

Gay Travel Phrase Book

by Adrienne Wilson on

Everyone here knows I’m into learning as much and many foreign words as my brain can possibly soak in, which is why this particular book caught my eye. I’m a straight woman so I don’t know how far some of the phrases in eight different langs will take me in some place like Portugal, but I find it might help someone. I saw this one over at Get Lost Books and laughed at first because I don’t know any of my gay pals that would use this book. (Unless they’re secretly doing so.) According to the short blurb on Get Lost Books the most interesting part of the book are the euphemisms for being gay in different lingos with literal English translation. For example: “he’s from third parish” or “slipped an okra.” That was in English and I’m still confused.

Oh well.